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50mm/f2.8 versus 90mm/f2.8 macro lenses for coin photos?
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<p>[QUOTE="dougsmit, post: 2607537, member: 19463"]I am a fan of longer focal length macros and use a 100mm with my Canon 5DmkII. That places me about 5" from lens to coin at 1:1 which is minimal in my book. Part of me wishes I had spent more and got the 180 macro but it is not worth changing now. I also use a set of extension tubes which will get me closer when desired. The quality of modern lenses and camera allows cropping for many uses so being able to shoot coin parts might not be as big a problem as it might first seem. A set of extension tubes will get you closer when used on a 50mm than on a 90mm but you will be very close to the coin doing this. </p><p><br /></p><p>Depth of field is greater for shorter focal length lenses at the same distance but you lose that advantage when you move closer to fill a frame with the small coin so it balances out. I rarely have a problem with depth of field but when I do, I just use a focus stacking program that solves it nicely. I probably would consider adapting a non-Sony lens for the purpose but purists will gasp at that. That would allow longer options for the money. </p><p><br /></p><p>Below is a shot with my 100 on tubes which is good enough for my standards. Most of my coins limit sharpness more than does my camera gear. </p><p>[ATTACH=full]570166[/ATTACH] </p><p><br /></p><p>This shot makes use of CombineZ focus stacking freeware allowing shooting the coin tilted to show the depth of cutting on the satyr's rear. Depth of field is no big thing on still subjects that lend themselves to stacking. </p><p>[ATTACH=full]570173[/ATTACH] </p><p><br /></p><p>My question to you is how do you intend to use these images and how much is it worth to do it a small amount better? A 50mm will work fine for larger coins and cropping will produce decent results on small ones. Extension tubes will allow amazing things with a 50mm as long as you can get light on the subject. A cheap LED (daylight) ring light might help here. If you are going for shots for online use (not 20x30 prints), I'd start by buying a set of extension tubes and use them on your regular lens to see if you can tolerate the results. My experience is most new shooters make enough errors that they fail to realize the difference between the $100 lens and the $1000 lens but no one wants to hear that and most believe that paying the money will fix the problems. It won't. If you are an experienced photographer in other subjects just moving into coins, you already know this. The answer is practice....lots of practice.</p><p><br /></p><p>Below is my set up as of a year and a half ago. It gets tweaked every time I use it. </p><p><img src="http://www.pbase.com/dougsmit/image/160721449.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /> </p><p>Coin Photography setup as of July 2015 </p><p><br /></p><p> A. Durst enlarger baseboard and upright frame with added ball joint to mount camera </p><p> B. Canon 5D mk II camera body </p><p> C. Canon 100mm f/2.8 macro lens on Kenko extension tube </p><p> D. LED ringlight (only used for some coins) </p><p> E. Ott desklight (used for most coins) - position adjustable on supports H </p><p> F. Movable support with raised section for small coins (placed under lens as needed) </p><p> G. Tall coin support dowel surrounded by shade tube with white edge reflector </p><p> H. Raised support (wood frame and oatmeal box) allowing positioning of light E </p><p> I. Small dowel/wood/foam collar for tiny coins - rotate platform F to place under lens </p><p><br /></p><p> Details of G above: </p><p> 1. Wood base covered with black foam </p><p> 2. Dowel rod (3/8" x 12") positioned in hole in base 1 </p><p> 3. Black foam sleeve to shade base </p><p> 4. White file card to reflect light on bottom edge of coin </p><p><br /></p><p>The coin shown in the above photo:</p><p>[ATTACH=full]570183[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="dougsmit, post: 2607537, member: 19463"]I am a fan of longer focal length macros and use a 100mm with my Canon 5DmkII. That places me about 5" from lens to coin at 1:1 which is minimal in my book. Part of me wishes I had spent more and got the 180 macro but it is not worth changing now. I also use a set of extension tubes which will get me closer when desired. The quality of modern lenses and camera allows cropping for many uses so being able to shoot coin parts might not be as big a problem as it might first seem. A set of extension tubes will get you closer when used on a 50mm than on a 90mm but you will be very close to the coin doing this. Depth of field is greater for shorter focal length lenses at the same distance but you lose that advantage when you move closer to fill a frame with the small coin so it balances out. I rarely have a problem with depth of field but when I do, I just use a focus stacking program that solves it nicely. I probably would consider adapting a non-Sony lens for the purpose but purists will gasp at that. That would allow longer options for the money. Below is a shot with my 100 on tubes which is good enough for my standards. Most of my coins limit sharpness more than does my camera gear. [ATTACH=full]570166[/ATTACH] This shot makes use of CombineZ focus stacking freeware allowing shooting the coin tilted to show the depth of cutting on the satyr's rear. Depth of field is no big thing on still subjects that lend themselves to stacking. [ATTACH=full]570173[/ATTACH] My question to you is how do you intend to use these images and how much is it worth to do it a small amount better? A 50mm will work fine for larger coins and cropping will produce decent results on small ones. Extension tubes will allow amazing things with a 50mm as long as you can get light on the subject. A cheap LED (daylight) ring light might help here. If you are going for shots for online use (not 20x30 prints), I'd start by buying a set of extension tubes and use them on your regular lens to see if you can tolerate the results. My experience is most new shooters make enough errors that they fail to realize the difference between the $100 lens and the $1000 lens but no one wants to hear that and most believe that paying the money will fix the problems. It won't. If you are an experienced photographer in other subjects just moving into coins, you already know this. The answer is practice....lots of practice. Below is my set up as of a year and a half ago. It gets tweaked every time I use it. [IMG]http://www.pbase.com/dougsmit/image/160721449.jpg[/IMG] Coin Photography setup as of July 2015 A. Durst enlarger baseboard and upright frame with added ball joint to mount camera B. Canon 5D mk II camera body C. Canon 100mm f/2.8 macro lens on Kenko extension tube D. LED ringlight (only used for some coins) E. Ott desklight (used for most coins) - position adjustable on supports H F. Movable support with raised section for small coins (placed under lens as needed) G. Tall coin support dowel surrounded by shade tube with white edge reflector H. Raised support (wood frame and oatmeal box) allowing positioning of light E I. Small dowel/wood/foam collar for tiny coins - rotate platform F to place under lens Details of G above: 1. Wood base covered with black foam 2. Dowel rod (3/8" x 12") positioned in hole in base 1 3. Black foam sleeve to shade base 4. White file card to reflect light on bottom edge of coin The coin shown in the above photo: [ATTACH=full]570183[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]
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50mm/f2.8 versus 90mm/f2.8 macro lenses for coin photos?
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