'44d Steel Wheatie!!!!

The coin has a stronger magnetic attraction on one side than on the other; which is to say, it always flops so that the same side is nearest the magnet.

 

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People world over say that they think one of the TPG's will switch your coin....but I have NEVER heard of that happening, nor do I know of anyone who have heard that.
PCGS and NGC aren't going to risk their million dollar business to switch coins and send you back a fake.

BTW--You don't have to send it in by a dealer, but if you don't you will need to join their collectors club. If you are an Ebay member then you can send it to NGC without having to join, but that is the only one I know of for sure.

Speedy

 

Andy,

Although your coin's weight is a little off, that does not always mean that it is a fake! There are many Copper and Zinc coated Steel Cents that weigh significantly different from the norms. Even during a good year, most of the Cents produced will weigh anywhere from 0.2 of a gram below to 0.2 of a gram above normal and sometimes more! Usually coins (in this case, Cents) that are produced from the beginning or ending of a roll of planchet stock, will be significantly lower or higher in weight but especially the ones produced from the beginning of the roll. This is the point that the adjustments in depth of the stock has to be made and if the stock is too thick, then they have to adjust the depth down and vice versa, if the stock is too thin, then they have to adjust the depth upwards. Any coins produced from planchet stock that is punched out from these areas, will vary quite a bit in thickness and weight!

My recommendation to you, is to take the coin to several Coin Shops and or Jewelry Shops and try to obtain several Certified weights on it! Weighing scales are not always calibrated as they should be and you may get quite a few different weights on the coin. Also, have the coin examined under a high power microscope to see if there any seams on the Obverse, Reverse or on the edge (rim). If after all this, the coin appears to be real, then send it off to PCGS or NGC. You can become a Member of either PCGS or NGC or both and submit the coin yourself, directly to one of them. By becoming a Member and submitting the coin yourself, you cut out the Middle-Man and the chance of a switch-a-roo!

Before you send the coin off for Certification, grading and attribution of the error, take detailed pictures of the coin and try to obtain letters or Appraisals from two or more Coin Dealers which are Certified to give Appraisals. This will aid you in case the coin is lost, stolen or damaged in shipping. Make sure that you send the coin via Registered Mail by whichever method that the TPG requires (Priority Mail, First Class Mail or other) with the maximum amount of Insurance.

Good luck and hoping you the best!


Frank

 

what would have made you check it with a magnet in the first place since it's not a 43?

 

Is it attracted to a magnet as strongly as a 1943 steel cent? Possibilities include a genuine steel cent struck on a slightly thick planchet, a struck counterfeit, and a normal cent plated with nickel (weak attraction in that case). The color seems a bit unnatural, but it's not a conclusive piece of evidence for fakery.

 

Well if it were me and I had a 1944-D Cent that looked like a 1943 Zinc coated Steel Cent, I would definitely check it with a magnet! I think that it would behove anyone to check such a Cent to make sure that it is not just a plated Bronze cent.


Frank

 

There are "real" 44 steelies and 43 coppers. You probably knew that. Now if this is the real deal that is the question.

 

That description pretty much establishes it as a fake. A steel cent would not "flop" in response to a magnet. It would slam into it with great force. Also, the attraction would be the same on both faces.

 

First off, thank you Frank and Speedy for some good advice and insight. I'd love nothing better to send it off and know ASAP the true composition of the coin. But, alas, as funds are tight right now it will need to wait for a while, but I know sound advice when I see it and will be sure to follow it when the time comes. Also, to clarify, the stronger magnetic attraction is not between the obverse and reverse, rather it is the left edge (of the obverse). The coin stands on edge on a magnet. If the weaker edge is placed on the magnet it does not stand on end; it lays flat. Thanks again for great advice guys!

 

Just one question, why would you even think of sending it in? The genuine articles are all steel, with a very negligible coating of zinc. In fact, the zinc composition is so marginal, the Red Book doesn't even bother to specify a %-age. If the magnetic-distribution isn't uniform, what can a TPG tell you that you don't already know? I think the more interesting question, now, is exactly how this thing was made. Seems it's a pretty good fake, I'm saying, not weighing-out at the expected copper-weight, 3.11g...

 

Both faces, both edges, doesn't matter. If it was really a 44D steel cent the whole thing would be strongly magnetic and it wouldn't be strong in one area and weak in another. I had hopes for it until then. Now I'd agree with Mike that it is almost certainly, practically unquestionably, a fake.

 

If I am reading that correctly (and I am not sure I am), all that indicates is the the "stronger" edge is a true 90 degrees and flat. The "weaker" edge is either not a true 90 degrees, not flat, or has some other flaw that keeps it from balancing on that edge. In other words, the coin would not balance well on the "weak" side even on a flat counter top. Since the magnetism would greatly amplify this aberration, It may actually balance on the counter top, but more tenuously.

 

Well, aside from just wanting to know once and for all about it, I read in a recent issue of Numismatic News about an older couple going through their unsearched wheats with a magnet and a 1920 (I think) stuck. After sending it in it was revealed that a chunk of iron big enough to raise the cent with a magnet was embedded in the planchet at the mint. This article is enough to keep my interest in the possibility that it may be authentic. Maybe it's grasping at straws but.... Anyway, my description wasn't good enough about how it stands on edge. there are no flat parts. My girlfriend and I roll the thing across the table to one another while reading and responding to this thread. One side just has a greater attraction... I wish I could better demonstrate. -Andy

 

SO, if I send it in, and it is deemed to be not authentic, has anyone had experience with that before? How much of a fee is charged if the coin is not graded or slabbed when it returns to you? -Andy

 

Just a word of warning. If this coin has any numismatic value, every time you touch it, roll it, click it on a magnet, rub it, etc. takes away from its final value. If this thing was new to begin with, every nick on it could be thousands of dollars less at the end.

 

They do not refund anything on Bodybags........
full price to find out

 

Andy,

I find and it appears that others on C.T. are somewhat confused about how the coin flops to one side predominantly! This is in no way a test of it's magnetism and/or authenticity and should not be used or even considered when trying to determine if the coin is an authentic 1944-D Cent struck on a Steel Planchet! The large majority of coins minted since the U.S. Mints began minting, are thicker on one side compared to the other and varies significantly with each and ever coin run. Also, if the Dies are not aligned correctly or the planchet does not set correctly in the striking chamber and collar, it will more than likely come out thicker on one side compared to the other.

This is my recommendation on better determining if the coin is or is not authentic: Wrap the magnet in a thin, soft cloth and while holding the coin flat in your palm with gloved hands, lower the magnet towards the coin. Make note of the strength of which the coin jumps to the magnet as well as the distance between the magnet and the coin when this occurs. Now flip the coin over and repeat, making note of the same. Generally, if the coin jumps (is attracted to) to the magnet at about the same distance and with about the same speed on both sides, then it must be Steel throughout and not a part Bronze Cent and part Steel Cent man-made fake!

If after the above, the coin appears to be authentic, it would be worth the cost IMHO to pay to find out whether it is authentic or not!


Frank

 

Andy,
You are reading too much into this, if it is magnetize then it had steel in it. If you can not see any machine marks or where anyone has tampered with it and has a weight of 2.70 grams or close and a diameter of 19 mm then it is more then likly the real deal. But the only way to be sure is to send it in and have it graded.

If it was my coin and I was not sure of the authenticity of the coin, then I would take it to a coin show and have as many dealers that would look at it give me their opinion of the coin before I made the decision to send it in for grading, but that is me. Good Luck and I hope everthing works out for the best.

 

Except ICG... They refund on the bodybag.

 

Have you compared how your 44D cent reacts to a magnet with a couple of known 43's? Do you get the same reactions with both?

Larry Nienaber