Came across this penny today and not 100% sure what the deal is. Would love some opinions and thoughts on this. I have my thoughts but am conflicted as I'm no expert my any means. It seems to me to have true hub doubling from pics and info I've seen and read, including from this forum. Thanks in advance.
It looks like something to Meow. The twos have split points. But a shiny coin can reflect its own devices in the field making it look like doubling. So it is hard to say.
Greatly appreciate everyone's input. Can someone give me a little more clarification regarding this. I guess I'm having a hard time deciphering between the 2 as I see my 0 being more similar to the DD in the first pic as opposed the MD in the first pic? Thanks again everyone.
The photos aren't good enough to show what the details look like. If you look at all the doubling on your coin, it all goes towards the rim. This is classic DDD, of course there can be MD in the mix, but it shows nothing like a Doubled die.
Welcome to the forum... I am not your error/variety expert, but I been around the block once or twice with these old coins.... The coin below is from my collection. The classic 1955 Doubled. I'm showing it because I want you to see something that is specific to a doubled coin.... The doubling travels around the coin and is greater at the outside and less pronounced as you get closer to the center of the coin. Why? Imagine a bicycle wheel spinning. The outer portion of the wheel travels a farther direction than the center. It is the same with a doubled coin. The coin is restricted in the die and for doubling to occur, it has to spin in that collar. Secondly, the US mint has introduced a monkey in the mix since 1982. These newer cents are a zinc core with a very minute layer of copper. This process can make for some fairly pronounced anomalies by its very nature. I'll admit, your coin is interesting and grabs your attention. But I do think like the others that what you are seeing are the affects of a worn out die striking a copper plated planchet and leaving an interesting coin that you are quite fortunate to own.
A couple of comments: As presented, Randy is right...it looks interesting. As noted though, this looks to be a case of reflections and perhaps some die wash High magnification creates distortions that trick the eye. When posted coins for attribution/consultation, you are best to put out full images of the obverse and reverse. This way, if there are markers those helping out here might be able to dial in on them and help you with the diagnosis. As you'll note with Randy's specimen, significant doubling is pretty obvious. Zooming isn't necessary. Minor doubling usually requires magnification. Taking crisp, clear photos helps tremendously. Have fun and experiment with the photo taking. Typically speaking, for the single-squeeze process, Class 2 doubling is unlikely (if at all possible). Normally, this class of doubling affects the outer devices. Class 8 tilted doubling normally affects the centermost devices. Single-squeeze is primarily Class 8 doubling. So when investigating the outer devices, check for evidence of die deterioration and/or machine damage. These are typically the culprits we see here. Welcome to the mix, Johnny!
And don't forget my "pain in the rear" Class 9 "Only God Knows" as per Wexler and Flynn's book " Authoritative Reference on Lincoln Cents". This is a great source for all of the variations and study of the early reference and descriptions can make a person well aware of the various. I highly respect 99.9% OF the explanations, but I can not buy the Class 9 stuff, as if the mechanical process can not be determined to have produced the effect by pressing it, how could it have been complete mechanical process and not human ( or God's, which I doubt) intervention. There are 2 used currently on EBay for $55 and $60, and for members who do mainly cents, it would be worth it in the long run. Jim
Thank u everyone and I mean everyone for all the generous responses. I've only recently got into collecting and looking at things. My wife just got me a scope for xmas and def need to work on my photo setup. I know there is still plenty for me to learn and figure out and u have all helped steer me in the right direction. Thank u again to everyone and appreciate the welcome to the forum!!
Reflection doubling for sure and some slight die deterioration too. No machine doubling here as you actually wouldn’t be able to see it in the current stage of these images. On shields cents for doubling you want to focus on the physical devices and the raised metal the makes up them. You want to see a smudge or smeared appearance (extra thickness) to the raised metal. the images if we forget the reflection doubling here and focus on the the raised devices extra thickness isn’t seen at all. Also denver minted Pennie’s you won’t find extra thickness at all Philadelphia coins are your go to for doubled dies and seeing extra thickness. That’s just how it is. doubleddie.com coppercoins.com varietyvista.com great sites to see what the extra thickness doubled dies of shield cents will look like. Below is a doubled die reverse on a 2011 Philly Extra thickness on intials and distortion you can see in The LB also JFM is thick the bottom of the J going southeast and the F being thicker to the west etc. EPU is skinny and wavy in appearance which is what you’ll see with doubled die reverses on shields.
