Just purchased the new Blue Book (2017) - the price of silver is up since the 2016 book, yet the coin prices for Washington quarters and Franklin halves are a dollar less than in the previous edition - does anyone know the 'lag time' between the posting of prices and actual publication date ? It seems that the 2016 Blue Book prices are more accurate now than those in the 'new' 2017 edition. Example: 2017 edition lists G-4 Mercury dimes = 1916D 475, 1921 25, 1921D 30 2016 edition lists G-4 Mercury dimes = 1916D 500, 1921 30, 1921D 35 Are dealers really paying less this summer than last year, or is it a Blue book glitch?
The amount of scrap silver in a mercury dime is like $1 or 2 (http://www.coinflation.com/coins/1916-1945-Silver-Mercury-Dime-Value.html). So your blue book prices are numismatic values, not scrap prices. So it doesn't matter if the price of silver goes from $13 to $20 an ounce because the price in the book isn't based off the price of silver. Maybe the numismatic value of the mercury dime series has fallen a little year over year. One could reasonably make a case that mercs, especially the 1916D are very overvalued compared to their numismatic rarity. Maybe people just are paying a little less for them. Edit - spelling
If the blue book is anything like the red book, then the price of silver and gold is stated somewhere in the text. For example... Note: Values of common gold coins have been based on the current bullion price of gold, $ 1,300 per ounce, and may vary with the prevailing spot price. The net weight and content listed may be used to recalculate bullion value. Yeoman, R.S.. A Guide Book of United States Coins 2015: The Official Red Book (Kindle Locations 3703-3705). Whitman Publishing. Kindle Edition.
Don't rely on that volume.........use it only for yucks and semi orgasmic delights.........ain't the real world.
You know I used to buy the new years Red Book every year it came out, but buy the time it comes out, its already ohtdated..... Now I can't even get rid of the ones I have...
Thanks for the insights - I guess that eBay auction prices are more reflective of real world values - the blue book prices are just guesstimates and/or general guidelines
Maybe the discussions on the forum have transferred to the real world about availability and value. I have only seen 1 -16D since the popularity report. Seems like it should be coming back to reality. 21's are just a bonus.
This is an abundant truth which renders any printed guide useless if you're interested in how much you should pay right now. If you wish to buy something, the only relevant "price guide" is how much other people will pay for the same thing today, because you're not competing against a printed word for the item.... Fortunately we live in a world where real-life sales results are easy to aggregate. The importance of this data cannot be overstated, and is what renders printed price guides irrelevant.
If the Redbook lists a $700 1982-P 25c for $15 then I suppose the Bluebook will list it for a quarter. I'm boycotting all the price guides until they fix the mess.
There is no reason to pay attention to any annual price guide. Why anyone think it accurately reflects what coins are actually worth?
And I'm turning 13 in 12 days... As of the time this was written, 11 days for you east coasters... Anyway, price guides don't always reflect value IMO. An example of coins being listed too low is the 1863-67 S half dimes and dimes. These usually sell for waaay above price guide value, even damaged as most S-mint seated half dimes and dimes prior to 1872 are usually found damaged. An example of price guides listing coins too high is the 1912-S Liberty Head Nickel. In the 2017 RB G-4s are $175, VG-8s are $240, and F-12s are $285. A quick search on the bay for slabbed coins shows I can buy G-4s for $130, VG-8s for $165, and F-12s for $200. The price curve from F-12 to VF-20 is large both in the books and on the market, so get a nice F-12 if you want one. BTW red book is dealer sell price, blue book is dealer buy price.
Because a majority of sellers use red book prices. From eBay, to GC, to my lol local LCS. True auctions notwithstanding. At least from what I've seen .