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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;Oldhoopster, post: 5199292, member: 84179&quot;]I’m absolutely going to tell you it’s worthless doubling because that’s what it is.&nbsp; No good news for you today <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie46" alt=":facepalm:" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p>Go to the doubleddie.com site referenced earlier and notice how true doubling occurs.&nbsp; The hub shifts slightly during one of the pressings into the working die (The mint now uses a single press process, but that’s a different story).&nbsp; This would cause the letters/numbers etc, to be a little wider, i.e, you would have the normal thickness, plus a little extra from the shift. </p><p><br /></p><p>Now look at your coin.&nbsp; The “doubled” letters are all thinner.&nbsp; If you understand the die making process, you can easily see that it can’t be a doubled die.&nbsp; Doubling where the devices are thinner than normal is a giveaway that you have worthless doubling.</p><p><br /></p><p>Another thing to note is the weakness of the periphery and radial flow lines.&nbsp; That tells you the die struck a lot of coins and is worn out.&nbsp; And worn dies have a tendency to display die deterioration doubling.</p><p><br /></p><p>Remember, there are a whole lot of MD and DDD coins out there, but very few true doubled dies.&nbsp; Learning the die making process will help keep you from wasting time on the obvious worthless coins.&nbsp; Hope this helps[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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