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<p>[QUOTE="Hobo, post: 1352508, member: 11521"]jh, Sorry that you too offense at my answer. Your questions had already been answered multiple times and you responded that you "got it" (or something to that effect) before you asked again. </p><p><br /></p><p>Let me try to explain what we are talking about. Doubling is not the easiest subject to understand. It can be VERY confusing to someone brand new to the hobby. It really helps to have a firm understanding of the coin-making process to understand how an error or a variety can occur. I can't explain the entire coin-making process here (but you can probably find good explanations on other threads or elsewhere on the Internet) but I will try to explain the pertinent parts. </p><p><br /></p><p>Coin dies are made by a process called hubbing. A Master Hub is created by a process that I will not go into. Suffice it to say that the Master Hub is essentially identical to the obverse or reverse of the coin. The raised features on the coin (e.g., the devices, lettering, date, mintmark, etc.) are raised on the Master Hub and everything is in the correct orientation. A Master Die is made by pressing the Master Hub into a blank die (which has been softened - annealed). This process is called 'hubbing' and produces a Master Die where everything is in reverse - the raised features are incuse, the lettering and numerals are retrograde, etc.. The Master Hub is then stored away to protect it from damage. </p><p><br /></p><p>The Master Die is used to make a number of Working Hubs. The Master Die is pressed into an annealed blank die where everything is reversed again (which makes a positive of the coin - just like the Master Hub). The Master Die is stored away and the Working Hubs are used to make several Working Dies which are used to strke the coins. </p><p><br /></p><p>Up until 15 years ago the technology and equipment used by the Mint required them to use multiple hubbings to completely transfer all the details from a hub to a die or from a Master Die to a Working Hub. Between each hubbing the hub or die receiving the hubbing would have to be removed from the hubbing machine, go through another annealing process (to soften the die steel), and be placed back in the hubbing machine before receiving the next hubbing. If the hub and die were not perfectly aligned the features on the hub or die receiving the hubbing could be doubled. (Think about it this way. Say you lightly step in snow, remove your foot and then step again in the snow, over and over but deeper each time. If your shoe is not perfectly lined up each time the footprint you leave may be slightly "doubled".) </p><p><br /></p><p>So, if a Working Die were made with some doubling on some of its features every coin struck with that die would have that doubling (because the doubling is on the die itself). These coins are known as 'doubled dies' and are highly collectible. </p><p><br /></p><p>In 1997 the Mint started using the "single squeeze" hubbing process to make hubs and dies. They now make a die or a hub in one hubbing. That means most of the ways that doubled dies were created using the multiple squeeze process were eliminated. That is why I said (based on the date of your coin) that it is highly unlikely that the doubling on your coin would be due to a doubled die. </p><p><br /></p><p>Your coin has strike doubling (aka, machine doubling, et al). Strike doulbing (as was explained to you earlier in another post) occurs when a coin is struck by a die but when the die rises after striking the coin it chatters or moves laterally slightly. This causes the die to hit portions of the raised elements that were just struck and shears them off a bit, leaving a shelf-like portion of the raised elements. This doubling is not a doubled die. It is considered damage by many collectors. </p><p><br /></p><p>Don't fall into the trap of getting frustrated because you cannot understand something about coin collecting after only a few minutes. Many of us here have collected coins for decades and are still learning. </p><p><br /></p><p>Sorry for the earlier misunderstanding and I wish you luck in your numismatic endeavors.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Hobo, post: 1352508, member: 11521"]jh, Sorry that you too offense at my answer. Your questions had already been answered multiple times and you responded that you "got it" (or something to that effect) before you asked again. Let me try to explain what we are talking about. Doubling is not the easiest subject to understand. It can be VERY confusing to someone brand new to the hobby. It really helps to have a firm understanding of the coin-making process to understand how an error or a variety can occur. I can't explain the entire coin-making process here (but you can probably find good explanations on other threads or elsewhere on the Internet) but I will try to explain the pertinent parts. Coin dies are made by a process called hubbing. A Master Hub is created by a process that I will not go into. Suffice it to say that the Master Hub is essentially identical to the obverse or reverse of the coin. The raised features on the coin (e.g., the devices, lettering, date, mintmark, etc.) are raised on the Master Hub and everything is in the correct orientation. A Master Die is made by pressing the Master Hub into a blank die (which has been softened - annealed). This process is called 'hubbing' and produces a Master Die where everything is in reverse - the raised features are incuse, the lettering and numerals are retrograde, etc.. The Master Hub is then stored away to protect it from damage. The Master Die is used to make a number of Working Hubs. The Master Die is pressed into an annealed blank die where everything is reversed again (which makes a positive of the coin - just like the Master Hub). The Master Die is stored away and the Working Hubs are used to make several Working Dies which are used to strke the coins. Up until 15 years ago the technology and equipment used by the Mint required them to use multiple hubbings to completely transfer all the details from a hub to a die or from a Master Die to a Working Hub. Between each hubbing the hub or die receiving the hubbing would have to be removed from the hubbing machine, go through another annealing process (to soften the die steel), and be placed back in the hubbing machine before receiving the next hubbing. If the hub and die were not perfectly aligned the features on the hub or die receiving the hubbing could be doubled. (Think about it this way. Say you lightly step in snow, remove your foot and then step again in the snow, over and over but deeper each time. If your shoe is not perfectly lined up each time the footprint you leave may be slightly "doubled".) So, if a Working Die were made with some doubling on some of its features every coin struck with that die would have that doubling (because the doubling is on the die itself). These coins are known as 'doubled dies' and are highly collectible. In 1997 the Mint started using the "single squeeze" hubbing process to make hubs and dies. They now make a die or a hub in one hubbing. That means most of the ways that doubled dies were created using the multiple squeeze process were eliminated. That is why I said (based on the date of your coin) that it is highly unlikely that the doubling on your coin would be due to a doubled die. Your coin has strike doubling (aka, machine doubling, et al). Strike doulbing (as was explained to you earlier in another post) occurs when a coin is struck by a die but when the die rises after striking the coin it chatters or moves laterally slightly. This causes the die to hit portions of the raised elements that were just struck and shears them off a bit, leaving a shelf-like portion of the raised elements. This doubling is not a doubled die. It is considered damage by many collectors. Don't fall into the trap of getting frustrated because you cannot understand something about coin collecting after only a few minutes. Many of us here have collected coins for decades and are still learning. Sorry for the earlier misunderstanding and I wish you luck in your numismatic endeavors.[/QUOTE]
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