$2.5 Indian Gold - What do you think?

I just printed both of those pictures and held them up to the light and you were exactly right. The reverse of the coin is what is shown on the obverse and it matches up exactly with all of those random marks that were not usuall on the obverse. Now, does this make it any more likely that it is real? ALso, does this do anything at all to the grade of the coin? Is it more rare and possibly more valuable or is it something that would hurt the overall grade of the coin? Any help you could give me would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again guys for all of your help. The wisdom that all of you bring to these discussions never ceases to amaze me.

 

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The clashing does not effect the grade. It's not rare enough to raise the value as it happens on 5-10% of these.

My opinion is that the clashing makes it more likely it is real and not counterfeit but I have not proof of this opinion.

I would contact the seller and tell him some folks said it might be counterfeit, tell him you want to send it to PCGS or NGC to have it authenticated, if it comes back authentic then all is good, if not can you have a refund. (Mention it takes 1-2 months for this authentication)

As far as grade, what did you buy it as or what was the advertised grade?

 

Die cracks, die chips and other errors such as clashing as well are a possible indicator it is genuine, not always, but a good rule of thumb.

It is because of genuine die wear, these are characteristics assosciated with normal long die life.

Bill Fivaz Rule 17 geniune coin rules of thumb.
United States gold : counterfeit detection guide

 

Yes, one looks for wear on the design elements. The #1 places to look for rub are the Indian's cheek and eagle's shoulder.

 

How much would you guys pay for a coin like this, if you knew that it was authentic?

 

I would pay around $300 if its authentic and a non problem coin
I don't want one, but that's how much I think is a fair price

 

Who would be able to tell me its authenticity in a reasonable amount of time. I would send it in for grading but if it comes back counterfeit a month or two later than I am stuck with it. Is there anyway of getting someone to tell me if its real within a week?

 

While I can't make any promises, the coin looks genuine to me and I grade it AU. However, they are common enough so that it's not worth risking your money on an uncertified example unless you KNOW that the seller is both knowledgeable and honorable.

If you buy an uncertified one and then spend the extra money for grading and postage in order to have it authenticated, you will have increased your cost by more than 10%. You'd be better off either buying a certified one or an uncertified one from a reliable source. In the latter case, you wouldn't need to have it certified.

 

That's very sound advice.

 

I am very surprised there are not any books/seminars on learning how to detect fakes. PCGS/ngc/mafia/cartel wants us to depend on them for the final answer.

 

There are several of each.

ANA offers a 5-day class on counterfeit detection at Summer Seminar every year. This year a friend and I am conducting a mini-seminar on basic counterfeit detection.

ANA offers 1-day seminars at major coin shows.

ANA also has a correspondence course on counterfeit detection.

There are several books on counterfeit detection. Bill Fivaz's book on detecting counterfeit gold coins is excellent. PCGS has a book on both grading and counterfeit detection. And there are plenty more out there. All you have to do is look.

 

I completely agree. I would let this one go and find one that has been slabbed already. These are popularly collected and commonly found...you should have no trouble finding another.

 

Well guys, I just wanted to let you all know that I took your advise and canceled my order for this coin. Overall, the risk was far greater than the reward. Thanks for all your help. If you get a chance, please help me out on my latest debacle, which is a 1928-P Peace Dollar that I have verified being a legit date and mint, but has been polished at some point. I wanted to see if it makes it completely worthless. I started a new post for it on here if you want to throw in your two cents worth. Thanks again,

 

I know this is bringing up a super old thread, but that coin is genuine, and it is a clash mark. ALSO, the 1908 $2 1/2 was minted with less detail on the eagle's wing/shoulder, so that is not a sure sign of wear.

 

Now you have me concerned....

How does mine look? It's in a ACG slab which has me worried.