Hi Jay, I'm afraid not, likely die deterioration doubling. Just a piece of advice take it for what it's worth, read the below linked information and understand it. this describes exactly how Doubled Die coins are made, as well as doubled master hubs, doubled master dies, and doubled working dies as well as the differences between Class 1 to Class 7 doubled die coins. and then the newer single squeeze hubbing process and how doubled dies appear now since this method was adopted by the mint. this is really informative and will give you a much clearer understanding of what is a doubled die coin, and what is not and is instead some form of strike doubling like, Grease Mold Doubling/Filled Die Doubling, mechanical doubling, split plate doubling, die deterioration doubling, die wear doubling, ejection doubling, http://doubleddie.com/58222.html Here is a link to the "other forms of doubling" this covers a lot of the striking doubling issues (mechanical doubling) that isn't very collectible or valuable. http://koinpro.tripod.com/Articles/OtherFormsOfDoubling.htm this is by no means a complete list of "other doubling events" there's slide doubling, push doubling, rim-restricted design duplication, and many more strikeing doubling events. doubled dies are literally, "doubling of the impression on the die", every coin struck by that die will have the same thing. the mechanical doubling or "strike doubling" will come and go as random events or wear events during the striking of coins and it's not consistent. Repunched mintmarks also fall into the doubled die category, they were put on to the dies twice or more times, every coin struck with that die will have it, and the same appearance with the exception for wear (die deterioration) until the die gets retired. This all said, after reading through the linked pages and understanding it, you will clearly know it's not what you are looking for, and you will know what you ARE looking for when you see it. I really hope this helps, I was where you are at one point in time also, everyone is, some learning is necessary for understanding and clarity, good luck and be blessed.
I have read the doubled die articles multiple times but not koinpro. i will def check it out. heres a question i cant seem to find the answer for. when you look at the coin does it have to be flat on the surface or if its viewed at say an angle is it easier to spot the closer spreads. also the lighting is my really big problem do you keep one stationary light that doesnt move for every coin you look at or do you position it from the left or right to get a clearer view of what your looking for on a CCW or CW spread. it seems like any slight movement of anything and everything changes what your seeing so i constantly second guess what im actually looking at if that makes sence. should i stay away from the scope light and use an external light source because the difference in the image is night and day i know KISS keeep it simple and im prolly thinking about it to much. So if anyone can give me an idea of what "simple" is it would be very helpful here is a picture of my little setup if it helps i really like doing the hobby but im starting to think that maybe i just cant grasp the concept lol
@Jay latour ...glare and reflection can mimic doubling. Diffused light is hard to accomplish but is better. 2 light sources at 10 and 2 o’clock works very well as long as it isn’t too bright. 3MP scopes or better fix pixelation problems, for the most part. I have a 5MP. If I suspect doubling, I turn off the scope light and the double source and use a very low power pen light on the suspected area. It almost always confirms glare or reflection as the culprit...Spark
hey Jay, here's the harsh reality. You are looking for a needle in a haystack. LOL, for real though it's like that, you may get your lightning strike or jabbed in the hand, or you may check a million coins and come up empty time and time again. I'm not a fan of the coin microscopes at all, in a lot of cases the magnification is way too much. people use them and they put the coin flat. However, normally it's just coins that caught their eye, caught their loupe or magnifier next, and then they want to look at it at high magnification. Most people aren't using it as a catch all if that makes sense. it's when the 3x-4x-10x just won't do and they know something is there than needs to be looked at. Others may have a varying opinion on it's usage. die varieties, doubled dies, RPMs, Error coins even like double struck, offcentered, brockages, all very few and far between when you consider the amount of everything that is out there that ISN'T it, while the machine doubling striking events of little to no value are all really common. Coin graders are going to use their eye first and an incandescent desk light between 60 and 100 watts, a dark room and the desk lamp as fixed directional lighting, one source of lighting in the room. they will hold the coin in their hand and tilt it rotate it and look at it with their eye from different angles under the light and check for luster, defects, and anything else they will need a closer look at, they max out at about 3x, 4x, 7x magnification for general grading. This tilting and rotating generally reveals what is shadow or lighting/reflection doubling as the shadow moves, but everyone has their way of doing things, for grading it's pretty much a standard. Now, if they are looking for small errors or varieties that need attribution, or counterfeits, they will likely pull out the big gun magnifiers, 10x, and a 20x just in case, usually 10x is enough but sometimes they go deeper. As far as the lighting. Ambient light multiple light sources generally will cast shadows from different directions or multiple directions at once depending on how many light sources. With one light source from one direction, you get a consistent lighting every time, over and over, and know the movements needed for dings, scratches, doubled lettering edges to catch the light in order for those spots that need closer examination to "flash" with reflected light. Fluorescent, Halogen or LED light in general is too "bright" and "cold" and will wash out detail, or flood the coin surface. incandescent lightbulbs are going the ways of the dinosaurs though, hard to find now. The one in your picture is way too bright and cold, BUT many people do use the light on the microscope. I will just say a desk lamp, a 75 watt incandescent bulb as the light source and an otherwise dark room and you will see what I'm talking about. it is literally the best to view coins over any other lighting in my opinion even compared to sunlight outside which can be too bright. Not sure if you have light settings on the microscope light, but if you do, turn it down to low, if you can change it to warmer light maybe, and kill the ambient lighting in the room when using it and you might find it easier on the eyes and better viewing and contrast/color on the screen. Above the first 5 pictures are fantastic, #3 and #5 might need a bit more focus but not too bad at all, the last two are flooded with light, but they are sharply in focus. the pictures strain my eyes, it's got to be worse for you in person. coin hunting varieties like doubled dies is easy, finding them is the hard part, from what I can tell, you aren't missing anything, you just haven't come across one yet in your search. your second guessing is wishful thinking and hope. The truth be told,,,,,, I've never found one. I've found a lot of other things, but never a true doubled die or even an RPM and I've been looking for about 40 years off and on with my free time. Cuds, misaligned die strikes, 1998 and 2000 WAM cents, a lamination once in a blue moon, never a DD or RPM though. I'm long winded, but nothing is really simple, there's always variables. A coin microscope person that relies on it heavily may have another opinion about it. It's not really my thing at all, If I can't see it with 7x or lower, it's not worth the effort to me. but I also don't hunt for every variety in the cherry pickers, wexlers, coneca and varietyvista either. other people do try to "catch em all" like pokemon. by the way, those guys on youtube, the ones that are like "what's this? Let's slap in under the coin microscope for a better look". that's staged, they know already exactly what it is, have the scope all tuned in and ready to put on a show. they aren't fishing, they bought it online. LOL it's a lot like the slot videos, you know darn well they aren't getting back to back to back handpays, or wining every time, they are losing just like everyone else but putting on a show with what they do have for wins. nobody wants to watch the reality of a week of searching 20 boxes of pennies and coming up empty even if they condense it down to 10 minutes or less.
Ok so that just put everything into perspective for me thanks for taking the time... the part about hope and them being super rare is exactly right if i do have one i dont wanna put it back so i second guess way to much. Again thanks for taking the time to write that up man its much appreciated
No problem. In the end its a hobby it's supposed to occupy your time, be entertaining and fun, and occasionally rewarding, like fishing or learning an instrument. The more you know the easier it becomes, the more confident you become. Sometimes when it seems you've hit roadblocks or dryspells it gets frustrating. It will pay off if you stick to it, just like everything else. Good luck and be blessed
Allright i had a feeling it was glare to much variable. il check it out set it up im sure its my fix . It says my scope is a mustcam 5 mp but it sure doesnt seem like it sometimes. Thanks for the advice appreciate it sir.
