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<p>[QUOTE="AWORDCREATED, post: 1713166, member: 52245"]This is in the original case and hard to image on my scanner (1200 dpi), any advice? Is it 'OK' to open the case? And if so, how do I seal it back up? I tried tilting and various angles and what not but can't get the scanner to do a good job on the coin in the case. I'll try the camera. 75 photos, later ... have a lot of photographs of mostly reflections. What is the trick to this? Now, I admit to being a noob, so be kind - but do point out obvious things I just don't know yet, OK? Here is the best scans I have of the blobage on the reverse, and obverse scan and of the set for good measure. You can make out in the scan what is obvious to a good naked eye the following: A bleb line from above the B in PLURIBUS to below the U. The entire field is 'wrinkled' in a wave pattern aligned with the bleb line, about 45 degrees. Hard to see with all the reflections from the plastic in the image, but plain as day in real life. Several other blobs exist, for example just next to the first part of the line but straight above the B (making the B appear to have an Umlaut) ; above the O in ONE just under the building (seeable in the scan); 2 blobs just above the T in CENT (also seeable in the scan) ; and over a dozen other smaller ones all over the place. The obverse has the same wrinkle wave pattern in the same orientation and some small blebs. There is a tiny hole on the eye where the pupil would be if he were looking at you peripherally; two spots exist at about 2:30 and 3:30 on the rim appear to be foreign material or corrosion :O ; some sort of die mark (indent like a scratch ) just in front of the chin along the beard section ; a significant dimple in his hair half way between the bottom of the ear lobe and the collar tip which I don't see on any other proof (might be normal, but it is shines in contrast to the rest of the matte finish on the features) ; S mark is a tad cruddy and appears to be doubled a bit at the top edge; even the 5 and 8 in the date seem a bit doubled, but proofs are multistamped anyway right? so does that even matter on a proof? Obviously I need to get better images, please clue me in on how to do this without opening the case. I have a scanner at the office which is probably better, so I'll have to try that I suppose at the least.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="AWORDCREATED, post: 1713166, member: 52245"]This is in the original case and hard to image on my scanner (1200 dpi), any advice? Is it 'OK' to open the case? And if so, how do I seal it back up? I tried tilting and various angles and what not but can't get the scanner to do a good job on the coin in the case. I'll try the camera. 75 photos, later ... have a lot of photographs of mostly reflections. What is the trick to this? Now, I admit to being a noob, so be kind - but do point out obvious things I just don't know yet, OK? Here is the best scans I have of the blobage on the reverse, and obverse scan and of the set for good measure. You can make out in the scan what is obvious to a good naked eye the following: A bleb line from above the B in PLURIBUS to below the U. The entire field is 'wrinkled' in a wave pattern aligned with the bleb line, about 45 degrees. Hard to see with all the reflections from the plastic in the image, but plain as day in real life. Several other blobs exist, for example just next to the first part of the line but straight above the B (making the B appear to have an Umlaut) ; above the O in ONE just under the building (seeable in the scan); 2 blobs just above the T in CENT (also seeable in the scan) ; and over a dozen other smaller ones all over the place. The obverse has the same wrinkle wave pattern in the same orientation and some small blebs. There is a tiny hole on the eye where the pupil would be if he were looking at you peripherally; two spots exist at about 2:30 and 3:30 on the rim appear to be foreign material or corrosion :O ; some sort of die mark (indent like a scratch ) just in front of the chin along the beard section ; a significant dimple in his hair half way between the bottom of the ear lobe and the collar tip which I don't see on any other proof (might be normal, but it is shines in contrast to the rest of the matte finish on the features) ; S mark is a tad cruddy and appears to be doubled a bit at the top edge; even the 5 and 8 in the date seem a bit doubled, but proofs are multistamped anyway right? so does that even matter on a proof? Obviously I need to get better images, please clue me in on how to do this without opening the case. I have a scanner at the office which is probably better, so I'll have to try that I suppose at the least.[/QUOTE]
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