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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;Oldhoopster, post: 5272613, member: 84179&quot;]The only thing on your coin that&#039;s mint related is the filled D mintmark.&nbsp; However this is common on many coins minted in Denver in the 1970s so it doesn&#039;t add any additional value.</p><p><br /></p><p>All of the marks are circulation damage.&nbsp; None of it occurred at the mint.&nbsp; I&#039;m not sure why you think the coin is valuable? With all of those contact marks, its only worth the same as any generic Ike (I think the retail is around $1.50 but am not positive).</p><p><br /></p><p>There may be some mechanical doubling, but absolutely no evidence of a true doubled die</p><p><br /></p><p>In your previous posts, its been recommended that you take some time and begin studying the mintIng process. The more you know about how coins and dies are made, the less time you&#039;ll waste on coins that are obviously damaged.&nbsp; This is a good link to start</p><p><br /></p><p><a href="https://www.usmint.gov/news/inside-the-mint/how-coins-are-made-coin-production-terminology" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="https://www.usmint.gov/news/inside-the-mint/how-coins-are-made-coin-production-terminology" rel="nofollow">https://www.usmint.gov/news/inside-the-mint/how-coins-are-made-coin-production-terminology</a></p><p><br /></p><p>Wexler&#039;s site is also good to bookmark for doubled dies and RPM s.&nbsp; It also has a section on how coins and dies are made</p><p><a href="https://www.doubleddie.com" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="https://www.doubleddie.com" rel="nofollow">https://www.doubleddie.com</a></p><p><br /></p><p>If you plan to continue searching for errors, learning the minting process is a must.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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