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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;John Burgess, post: 6443369, member: 105098&quot;]check yer scale. all I can really say about that part. your pictures are of poor quality, your thumb is covering where the VDB should be, everything si washed out and detail-less, good enough for an Etsy listing or an Ebay auction I suppose, but for identifying real from fake, nahhh you gonna have to do better than that! <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie1" alt=":)" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p>plenty of spark erosion fakes out there that pop up on ebay from time to time made out of aluminum weighing in at around 1 gram.</p><p><a href="https://www.ngccoin.com/news/article/842/" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="https://www.ngccoin.com/news/article/842/" rel="nofollow">https://www.ngccoin.com/news/article/842/</a></p><p>and from PCGS</p><p>&quot;Spark-Erosion Counterfeits</p><p>Spark-erosion counterfeits are quite easy to detect because of the way in which they are manufactured.</p><p><br /></p><p>In the spark-erosion process, a model coin (usually genuine) is submersed in an electrolytic bath where the coin faces the counterfeiter&#039;s die steel. An electrical current is charged through the coin so that a spark jumps across the shortest gap between the coin and the die, thus etching the coin&#039;s design onto the steel die.</p><p><br /></p><p>After both the obverse and reverse have undergone the electrical current process, the dies are highly polished. This is necessary because once the dies have been etched, they remain somewhat pitted. The polishing generally will clean up the fields, but often the design will retain the pitting, since counterfeiters tend not to polish the main devices. Either they are unable to get down into the design, or for time&#039;s sake they choose to leave the design elements alone. In either case, these counterfeits are easy to detect, since their surfaces are glassy smooth-resembling a Proof finish-yet their devices are lumpy (remember, the pitting on the dies becomes raised lumps on the finished product). Because the excessive polishing makes the dies sharp, these counterfeits appear to be extremely well-struck, with knifelike edges and rims.</p><p><br /></p><p>These counterfeits usually are found on small-type coins such as cents and dimes, and on small-sized patterns such as those for Flying Eagle cents and dimes. PCGS has not encountered them on gold coins.&quot;</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Not saying it can&#039;t be a cent struck on aluminum, I dunno, struck on a Phillipines planchet or something like that POSSIBLY, Just saying, your scale should be double and triple checked for accuracy as a first step, then clean up these pictures so we can see what&#039;s actually going on. At face value, I&#039;m going to say its a spark erosion counterfeit. </p><p><br /></p><p>And I&#039;d add, the technology for prototyping copies of things has become way more advanced in the last decade, and cleaner then earlier methods.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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