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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;dchjr, post: 3002502, member: 76379&quot;]As stated above, a USB microscope that you can hook up to a computer is good to see the fine detail, but usually just a jeweler&#039;s loupe is used.&nbsp; Coins are graded with a 5x magnification, and usually if you can&#039;t see it through a 5x, then it&#039;s minor.&nbsp; You can get a cheap (~$10) loupe on line that has a few different magnifications.&nbsp; Try to get one with glass instead of plastic lenses. You can also put the lens up to a phone camera to get close up photos to share.&nbsp; This will take some practice.&nbsp; A USB microscope varies, but you can get a decent one with up to 300x (though that is not needed and don&#039;t post pictures with that much magnification!) for less than $100.&nbsp; I got one for $60 that I&#039;ve used for a few years now.&nbsp; It was a generic no-name.</p><p><img src="https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/418eUjA3jaL._AC_US200_.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p>The 1972 cent has many examples of doubled dies that are minor and hard to discern.&nbsp; The one thing to watch for on the 1972 is that it also has a Master Doubled Die.&nbsp; This means that all the working dies created from this master will show doubling.&nbsp; Since there are many coins struck with this, there is no premium for those coins.&nbsp; This is true for the D and S mint mark coins also.</p><p>Here is some information on the 1972 with examples.&nbsp; Read the very last listing for the Master Die.</p><p><a href="http://doubleddie.com/384301.html" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://doubleddie.com/384301.html" rel="nofollow">http://doubleddie.com/384301.html</a>[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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