Hello, I cracked this out of it's bulky case for a smaller holder, and to look at it without plastic after noticing how much it could change. I read that the browns can go in all kinds of directions, is this a typical one? Mine all depends on how you look at it, only a small amount of color on the reverse. Give it another 45 years?
Looks unattractive, to say the least. Nothing good will come out of it, even in 45 years, especially from those 2 big dark stains and a bunch of smaller and black ones. Keep it the way it is if you are into experiments and don't care if the surface gets ruined further. I live in a hot and humid climate, I see this haze a lot on improperly stored coins. Personally I would have properly cleaned this and keep some silica gel around.
Looks like a lot of haze. I've got similar examples........One of these days I'll give one a bath in some acetone and see what happens.
Yeah, that's pretty typical. I had some of those brown ones too. I cherry picked a real nice one once from this pawn shop. It had a ring of rainbow toning and I also remember haziness too.
If the coin looked like the top photo you would have had a winner. In the bottom one it is very unattractive. IMO, either trade out of it or dip it before the surface gets permanently etched. One day when I have two hours to type, I'll post a thread: How to properly dip a coin" as there are two to three steps necessary to prepare the coin BEFORE it goes near the dip. When the coin is prepared properly, there is less chance of screwing up.
It will be my experiment coin until it's sold with other worth it's weight silver if it hits $25/oz. Just got my pure acetone, now for some blue dip.
Have you ever gave MS70 a try on one of these? Would that maybe save what looks like blue toning? I'm thinking a dip will just strip it and leave an average looking proof. Would love to hear you opinion.
Dip it. The haze should come off, and you should have a much more attractive coin. The spots on the portrait may or may not come off. Don't worry much about what it would grade. The most common grade for these, and all proof Ikes, by far is PR69DCAM. A complete set of 11 can be had for about $260-280, perhaps even less.
Dipping is easy. Granted there's a very fine line of permanent destruction but it really is an easy process that works well to remove haze and light toning. I wash my hands with soap to get the oils off my index finger and thumb and put a length of folded toilet paper next to the sink. I turn on the faucet to mildly warm. I grab the coin by the rim and hold it vertically then hold it in the blue pool for about 2-3 seconds. Remove and immediately put both sides under the running water to rinse the chemicals off then lay it on the TP and fold it over and pat the coin gently once then move it to a fresh side of the TP pat again and let it sit for 10mins to fully dry and voila. It's a miracle. Now, everone has their little variances to this procedure but I've dipped many coins, mostly ikes btw, and haven't accidentally screwed up a single one. Some like to dilute the ezest but not me. A 2-3 second dip in full strength works great. Just don't think another few seconds will do a better job. That's where you get into trouble. For extra measure I'll sometimes soak in acetone first then soak in fresh acetone again afterward depending on the coin.
Thanks for the easy to follow instructions; but here we go - again. All I'll write for now is this: That's not how it is done by the folks who have "dipped" many thousands of valuable coins. However, I will write that this is the way 99.5% of the dealers/collectors do it. IMO, the OP SHOULD HAVE tried the MS-70 first. Usually that does the job.
Works for me with absolutely no ill effects insider. We're talking brown ikes here not a multi hundred or multi thousand dollar coin. And those should be left to the professional services anyway. It's not rocket science
The post above yours is about as succinct and accurate a description of the process as you'll find printed anywhere. My only difference in technique is in using tongs rather than fingers.
Sorry, NCD. I don't have the time or the desire. For now, just consider me an ignorant poster trying to impress. AFAIK, nothing has ever be written as to methods employed at the TPGS conservation services or by coin doctors. However, you may try to attend one of Brian Silliman's presentations and draw him out with questions. He formerly worked at NCS. Now, I've never looked but I'll bet there are lots of threads on coin forums and U-Tube giving instructions and demonstrations used by the 99.5%! One is posted by @Cascade w/ excellent suggestion to use tongs by another poster. As for brown Ikes, MS-70 will usually remove the haze. Rinse very well in HOT distilled water + detergent. If the haze is bluish and peripheral - leave it alone as many collectors prize this look. EDIT: All I have posted in other threads is that PREPARING the coin's surface BEFORE the final dip is the SECOND most important part of conservation. The FIRST is knowing which coins to touch and which to leave alone.
That "Haze" is typical of the Brown Box IKEs possibly due to a number of factors. The Primary factor would be in what the US Mint used as a final rinse and exactly "what" in the proof packaging environment contributed to this haze. The haze, IMO, is NOT the result of poor storage and could also "possibly" be the result of the adhesive used to seal the plastic lens which houses these coins. As a side note, this haze easily dips off with little to no impact to the coin itself due to the silver content and the proof finish. Your coin is in need of a quick E-Z-Est dip followed with a rinse in warm tap water, then warmed distilled water, then alcohol followed with a quick pat dry. By that I mean, lay it on a smooth paper dinnier napkins and press a folded dinner napkin onto the exposed surface. Flip the coin over and repeat.