1970 No S roosevelt dime

I just finished converting my Roosevelt 1946-1979 intercecept album to a 2x2 album. I noticed my 1970 roosie compared to my 1970-S dime. The 1970 looks so lusterous
but has no cameo in it as does the 1970-S. How do I tell that my 1970 is a proof without the S mintmark?

 

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Just going by your pics, it doesn't look like a proof. There are business strikes that are proof like but if you compare them side by side I think you would see a difference,especially in the fields. Unless you know the coin came from a proof set I would think the chances of it being a no S proof are very slim.

 

I agree, it does not look like a proof should.

 

Doesn't look like a proof.

 

If you compare the rims for right angle and sharp corner with the obverse, the bottom one has the sharp edges, flat rim, and the top one has chamfered (rounded) rim. So a proof die was not used on the top coin. Also the above observtions on the fields.

Jim

 

I agree with the others. The 1970 is a business strike.

 

It can be tough to tell with a few of the moderns since they appear as highly PL. The '70-P does come fairly PL but I've never seen one close enough to require a second look. Usually the rims of the PL coins are not square but this breaks down on some of the cents and dimes from the '80's and early '90's. I have an '89-D cent that is indistinguishable from a proof. It doesn't look as nice as an '89 proof but it's nicer than a lot of 1964 proofs. Frosted PL's are very rare. "Frosting" when it appears is very light and is probably inherent in the planchet rather than the die.

 

Thanks for all the info. I've learned something new again.

 

I was going throu my $16+ of dimes I keep in my patron bottle, and found a 1975 dime with no s on it, but refuse to get excited over it, once I herd how rare they are, will someone email me so I can send them pictures of it, and to help ease my mind lo

 

Welcome to CT, Andrew. Take your email address out of your post. It invites spam. People can contact you through Private Message.

 

Andrew, you may want to start your own thread on your coin to get more attention. You can use "Go Advanced" to post pics in your post. That will be the best way to get your coin seen.

 

1 - You might want to edit your post to remove your e-mail address. That is against forum rules and it opens you up to all kinds of nasty stuff if the wrong person (or bot) gets ahold of it.

2 - If your dime is a Proof coin with no mintmark then you have something. If your dime is a Business Strike (struck for circulation) then you have a common, ordinary dime struck in Philadelphia (no mintmark) and it is worth ten cents.

Post a good photo of your coin if you think you have the real deal.

 

Idk, that's the thing I'm new to this, I know it has two wafers on the side split one copper and one silver, and I don't believe proof coins have this. Or am I wrong?

 

Your coin is clad. A core of 100% copper and two outer layers of an alloy of 75% copper/25% nickel.

To the best of my knowledge, 1975 proofs were struck only in clad.

Please post pics. Go to "Go Advanced" and scroll down to "Manage attachments" then follow the instructions.

 

so it worth 10 cents?

 

99.99999942% chance it is worth ten cents.