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<p>[QUOTE="stldanceartist, post: 2055519, member: 13307"]Our first question, aside from requiring photos to give accurate advice, would be if the doubling looks flat and shelf-like, or if you can see separated notching on the corners of letters. Many of these coins have what is called mechanical or strike doubling - which essentially adds nothing to their value. Since the likelihood of all 5 coins in your set having true doubled dies is extremely remote, without photos we will most likely assume that your coins have mechanical doubling and are worth the normal price of a 1968 proof set.</p><p><br /></p><p>Hope that helps!</p><p><br /></p><p>EDIT: If you are unable to provide photos to diagnose/attribute the doubling on your coins, you won't be able to use them for whatever means you choose to sell them...and people will temper their bidding accordingly. Hate to say it, but if you can't show us, you won't be able to show them, and few people would pay extra for something they can't see.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="stldanceartist, post: 2055519, member: 13307"]Our first question, aside from requiring photos to give accurate advice, would be if the doubling looks flat and shelf-like, or if you can see separated notching on the corners of letters. Many of these coins have what is called mechanical or strike doubling - which essentially adds nothing to their value. Since the likelihood of all 5 coins in your set having true doubled dies is extremely remote, without photos we will most likely assume that your coins have mechanical doubling and are worth the normal price of a 1968 proof set. Hope that helps! EDIT: If you are unable to provide photos to diagnose/attribute the doubling on your coins, you won't be able to use them for whatever means you choose to sell them...and people will temper their bidding accordingly. Hate to say it, but if you can't show us, you won't be able to show them, and few people would pay extra for something they can't see.[/QUOTE]
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