So the IN & WE stuck together could just be from wear and damage? It looks almost worn off, and then again it is 25 years old.
The lettering of the IN and WE were not well struck. This is often a combination of factors like the dies being filled with debris or tilting a little and not striking flat. It can also be caused by die wear and light striking pressure. The letters are recessed in the die and in this case it appears bits of debris and grease partially filled them.
Just a minor correction, the Bicentennial year coins (drummer boy) are 1976. They were made in 1975 & 1976. The 1977 Washington quarter is just a regular quarter. Love this thread! You are going to have the biggest collection of clad Washington quarters ever.
I'm sure there is some guy or girl out there that is collecting washington quarters and never talk about it. Usually it's the quiet one that has a lot of it. LOL. I'm just happy with what I'm collecting in circulation.
WashQuartJess--I also have been working on a 32-98 collection but only for about 5 years. I have everything except the 1936 proof so far. All in GEm bu or higher. I'm on the verge of buying the 1936 proof in the next week or so and then my collection will be complete.The hardest coin of the group for me was the 1936-D. I'm not understanding the comments on how expensive clad quarters are. They seem pretty cheap to me compared to coins like the 1932-d, 1932-S or 1936-D--especially in GEm Bu conditions. So my collection has every proof from 1936 on up as well as the business strikes for all the other years and mintmarks. Now I'm working on a Lincoln penny collection,
and here I am looking through pocket change for quarters ... Would love to see some pictures of early die state quarters vs late die state quarters in those high grades. Actually would love to see all of them LOL
Lol--truer words were never spoken. I have recently retired--so I am now watching dollars much more than when I was working. My collecting has slowed down immensely as a result
Lucky for you and I have another 10-12 years. I still want to enjoy collecting but I sure don't want to get suck in too much. Its even insulting when a collector passes his/her collection to someone and tries to sell it while at the same time that same collection is being discounted heavily as I have seen it all the time. What an insult to all collectors as we spend a lot of time and money chasing better coins. That is another reason why I'm not going to buy older coins but instead obtain what's in circulation and get some from the U.S. Mint moving forward.
PMD damage you can see a scratch in line with the damage and how the metal was shifted. a die crack will be a raised surface and I think normally between legends/objects on the coin.
Either I'm still not understanding what exactly die cracks are, or need a better camera because the metal is lifted on the coin.
"lifted" does not constitute a die crack. damage can "lift" metal, or push it and bunch it up slightly to make it "lifted" If you have a perfectly Flat coin in 100% prestine condition, never seeing a hand/finger. And if there was a die crack metal would flow into that die crack and create a "solid" raised element on that surface with no imperfections around it. (fyi, Heat can cause an area to lift too, which is damage.) If the die crack is larger it may take metal away from another area (which is why pics of the complete coin front and rear are needed). For instance a large die crack or cud on the edge would take metal away from behind it causing the other side to have a "weak" strike or even indented area. most coins are Damaged if they've seen any circulation. They are initially moved around in large bags of coins, dropped, etc. thus causing "bag marks" where coins are hitting either other even before they are circulated. then think of what happens to coin once they are in people's possessions. All sorts of damage.
When I zoom in I really only see damage. notice how the "U" is hit, and pushed in the middle, splitting and pushing the edges of the U away from each other. The mark leading up to it would probably be a continuation of that hit mark.
I believe the clads are ridiculously cheap. Almost all of them are scarcer than any of the post-1949 silver quarters but more importantly many of them are highly elusive in Gem and some are even tough in nice chBU. The only reason it isn't apparent is very few people collect them and many who do are principally just filling holes. The reality is masked as well by the fact the services grade some issues like the '69-P and allow chicken scratching even on high grade. The way they grade '82-P's is a joke. Coins that are poorly struck from worn dies can get high grades so long as they are free of marking. Most of the MS-64 and higher of this date are poorly struck from worn dies and many are ugly. It's not apparent how scarce the clads are because they are perceived to be too common to collect; with no demand the lack of supply can't be seen. But this is changing and people are starting to collect the clads. Many are collecting them right from circulation and this is part of the reason that they are seen less and less often. Whether it's three years or ten years before all the nice attractive old eagle reverse quarters disappear from circulation doesn't really matter. As they disappear there will be the perception they are getting scarce and then clads will be collected. We'll find out if I'm right about how scarce these coins really are. By the way I believe the '82-P is scarcer in true Gem condition (clean and well struck by good dies) than the '32-D or even (probably) the '36-D. While there are some truly attractive (chGem) '69-P's they will be truly scarce.