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<p>[QUOTE="physics-fan3.14, post: 3319219, member: 19165"]1. The difference between AU and MS is based on wear. There is no wear on this coin. Contact marks are not wear. </p><p><br /></p><p>2. Contact marks and scratches are different things - this coin has no scratches, but it does have contact marks. The difference is in extent - a contact mark is usually short, may be deep, but is not extended; a scratch is a longer mark, like something was dragged across the face of the coin. Terminology is important. </p><p><br /></p><p>3. Where do you see a fingerprint? </p><p><br /></p><p>4. Scuffs on a cheek, or interruptions in the luster from marks like this, are not necessarily circulation wear. </p><p><br /></p><p>There are 2 suggestions for your continued eduction: first, buy and read a good book about how to grade coins. There are several out there, and members here can recommend their favorites. Second, after you read a good book, take a really close look at the Heritage auction archives - spend a long time looking at AU-58 examples and compare them to MS examples. You should start to notice a difference. Grading from photographs will never be as good as looking at coins in hand, but it's a decent start.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="physics-fan3.14, post: 3319219, member: 19165"]1. The difference between AU and MS is based on wear. There is no wear on this coin. Contact marks are not wear. 2. Contact marks and scratches are different things - this coin has no scratches, but it does have contact marks. The difference is in extent - a contact mark is usually short, may be deep, but is not extended; a scratch is a longer mark, like something was dragged across the face of the coin. Terminology is important. 3. Where do you see a fingerprint? 4. Scuffs on a cheek, or interruptions in the luster from marks like this, are not necessarily circulation wear. There are 2 suggestions for your continued eduction: first, buy and read a good book about how to grade coins. There are several out there, and members here can recommend their favorites. Second, after you read a good book, take a really close look at the Heritage auction archives - spend a long time looking at AU-58 examples and compare them to MS examples. You should start to notice a difference. Grading from photographs will never be as good as looking at coins in hand, but it's a decent start.[/QUOTE]
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