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1960 D/D "Error" and "Guess The Grade" by SEGS
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<p>[QUOTE="GDJMSP, post: 1879238, member: 112"]I've dished out the goods, dozens of times. That's the point. There are no links, there are no articles. The only thing there is are books. You wanna go buy and read books ? OK, go get "From Mine to Mint" by Roger Burdette. It just came out last year. To my knowledge that is the one and only book that has been written in almost a century that explains the process for polishing dies. The only one, there are no others because no other author ever took the time to find out.</p><p><br /></p><p>I've known about the process for years and I've explained it here on CT for years. I found out about the same way Roger did, by doing the research to find out. I finally found it in a copy of the Numismatist published in 1915. And believe me you're not gonna go pick one of those off the shelf anywhere.</p><p><br /></p><p>I've told ya how to see with your eyes that harsh cleaning and scratches will put both raised and incuse lines on a coin. It's a simple little test - won't take you 60 seconds to do it. So go do it and see for yourself. By all means, don't take my word for it.</p><p><br /></p><p>Die polish lines cannot criss-cross because they are polished by a large spinning zinc disk that is impregnated with diamond dust paste of varying degrees of fineness. The die is held in machine, rigid, and pressed down against the spinning disk - kind of like the way a drill press works if you can picture that. The high points on a die are the fields, so the only part of the die that can touch the zinc disk are the fields. Dies are flat, the disk is flat. The devices, legends, and numerals on a die are recesses in the die. Those recesses cannot touch the zinc disk - that's why there can never be any die polish lines on the coin devices.</p><p><br /></p><p>The reason die polish lines can never criss-cross is because of mathematics. You have a large zinc disk, about 12 inches in diameter. You have a coin die, the largest of which is less than 1 1/2 inches in diameter. Press the two together and the arc formed where they touch is almost a straight line because the arc of the 12 inch disk is so much bigger than the arc of the 1 1/2 inch or smaller die. So as the disk polishes the die it leaves fine grooves in the die from the diamond dust paste, that's what die polish lines are. Those grooves are basically straight and parallel to each other. And they can be no other way because it is physically impossible for them to be.</p><p><br /></p><p>Now in the course of a die being used they sometimes get dirty. They get grease on them, that grease often has metal particles that come from the machinery wearing, or other grit in it. When a mint worker goes to clean that dirty die, he does so by wiping the die off with a rag. When he does that, he can scratch the die. That scratch or scratches will leave raised on the coins struck by that die. And those scratches can run all sorts of directions. And they can cross die polish lines. But those scratches from the rags are not die polish lines.</p><p><br /></p><p>Then you have things like tool marks, again more small scratches in the die, that again cause raised lines on a coin struck by that die. Those scratches are not die polish lines either.</p><p><br /></p><p>Then you have roller marks. Roller marks are created on the planchets when the planchet is rolled out to desired thickness. You usually don't have them on most planchets, but sometimes they do show up. The roller marks are both incuse and raised. And when that particular planchet is struck, not all of the roller marks are obliterated by the strike so they show up on the coin as raised and incuse marks both.</p><p><br /></p><p>Now, if you had just taken my word for it, or done a search like I asked. I wouldn't have had to type all of this again for the 50th time. Besides, you still probably won't believe what I have tried to tell you - to teach you - so I sometimes I don't know why I bother.</p><p><br /></p><p>If I say something do you really think I just make it up and say it just to hear myself talk ? I've spent my entire life studying coins and learning things that other people don't know. Things that just aren't found in most books because those people writing the books don't know them. Because they, and nobody else or very dang few, ever did the research either. 99% of all coin books and articles written about coins come from other older books. And the authors of the new books just repeat what they read in the old books. So if the info wasn't in the books they read and got their info from, then it isn't in the new books either. And a lot of the info in the old books is wrong, so the authors of the new books just repeat the bad info over again.</p><p><br /></p><p>It's a catch 22 - to know good info from bad, ya first have to know what the heck you are reading about. Most people don't.</p><p><br /></p><p>Happy now ?[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="GDJMSP, post: 1879238, member: 112"]I've dished out the goods, dozens of times. That's the point. There are no links, there are no articles. The only thing there is are books. You wanna go buy and read books ? OK, go get "From Mine to Mint" by Roger Burdette. It just came out last year. To my knowledge that is the one and only book that has been written in almost a century that explains the process for polishing dies. The only one, there are no others because no other author ever took the time to find out. I've known about the process for years and I've explained it here on CT for years. I found out about the same way Roger did, by doing the research to find out. I finally found it in a copy of the Numismatist published in 1915. And believe me you're not gonna go pick one of those off the shelf anywhere. I've told ya how to see with your eyes that harsh cleaning and scratches will put both raised and incuse lines on a coin. It's a simple little test - won't take you 60 seconds to do it. So go do it and see for yourself. By all means, don't take my word for it. Die polish lines cannot criss-cross because they are polished by a large spinning zinc disk that is impregnated with diamond dust paste of varying degrees of fineness. The die is held in machine, rigid, and pressed down against the spinning disk - kind of like the way a drill press works if you can picture that. The high points on a die are the fields, so the only part of the die that can touch the zinc disk are the fields. Dies are flat, the disk is flat. The devices, legends, and numerals on a die are recesses in the die. Those recesses cannot touch the zinc disk - that's why there can never be any die polish lines on the coin devices. The reason die polish lines can never criss-cross is because of mathematics. You have a large zinc disk, about 12 inches in diameter. You have a coin die, the largest of which is less than 1 1/2 inches in diameter. Press the two together and the arc formed where they touch is almost a straight line because the arc of the 12 inch disk is so much bigger than the arc of the 1 1/2 inch or smaller die. So as the disk polishes the die it leaves fine grooves in the die from the diamond dust paste, that's what die polish lines are. Those grooves are basically straight and parallel to each other. And they can be no other way because it is physically impossible for them to be. Now in the course of a die being used they sometimes get dirty. They get grease on them, that grease often has metal particles that come from the machinery wearing, or other grit in it. When a mint worker goes to clean that dirty die, he does so by wiping the die off with a rag. When he does that, he can scratch the die. That scratch or scratches will leave raised on the coins struck by that die. And those scratches can run all sorts of directions. And they can cross die polish lines. But those scratches from the rags are not die polish lines. Then you have things like tool marks, again more small scratches in the die, that again cause raised lines on a coin struck by that die. Those scratches are not die polish lines either. Then you have roller marks. Roller marks are created on the planchets when the planchet is rolled out to desired thickness. You usually don't have them on most planchets, but sometimes they do show up. The roller marks are both incuse and raised. And when that particular planchet is struck, not all of the roller marks are obliterated by the strike so they show up on the coin as raised and incuse marks both. Now, if you had just taken my word for it, or done a search like I asked. I wouldn't have had to type all of this again for the 50th time. Besides, you still probably won't believe what I have tried to tell you - to teach you - so I sometimes I don't know why I bother. If I say something do you really think I just make it up and say it just to hear myself talk ? I've spent my entire life studying coins and learning things that other people don't know. Things that just aren't found in most books because those people writing the books don't know them. Because they, and nobody else or very dang few, ever did the research either. 99% of all coin books and articles written about coins come from other older books. And the authors of the new books just repeat what they read in the old books. So if the info wasn't in the books they read and got their info from, then it isn't in the new books either. And a lot of the info in the old books is wrong, so the authors of the new books just repeat the bad info over again. It's a catch 22 - to know good info from bad, ya first have to know what the heck you are reading about. Most people don't. Happy now ?[/QUOTE]
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1960 D/D "Error" and "Guess The Grade" by SEGS
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