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<p>[QUOTE="Numbers, post: 775054, member: 11668"]The polymer strip embedded in the paper began with Series 1990. The watermark began with Series 1996. Neither of these was put into the $1's or $2's.</p><p> </p><p>Anything older than Series 1957 will show as fake to the pen test. (On the other hand, modern bills can also show as fake if they've been through a laundry cycle--the pens are generally not too reliable.)</p><p> </p><p>Currency of the pre-1996 designs is no longer reissued by the Fed when they receive it, but all U.S. currency remains legal tender no matter how old it is, and there are still plenty of older-series bills outstanding. Generally, most FRNs of the 1950x and 1934x series are going to be worth very little premium over face value in worn condition, so if one of them gets spent, it'll likely stay in circulation until the Fed happens to get hold of it....[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Numbers, post: 775054, member: 11668"]The polymer strip embedded in the paper began with Series 1990. The watermark began with Series 1996. Neither of these was put into the $1's or $2's. Anything older than Series 1957 will show as fake to the pen test. (On the other hand, modern bills can also show as fake if they've been through a laundry cycle--the pens are generally not too reliable.) Currency of the pre-1996 designs is no longer reissued by the Fed when they receive it, but all U.S. currency remains legal tender no matter how old it is, and there are still plenty of older-series bills outstanding. Generally, most FRNs of the 1950x and 1934x series are going to be worth very little premium over face value in worn condition, so if one of them gets spent, it'll likely stay in circulation until the Fed happens to get hold of it....[/QUOTE]
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