Ok what's really the skinny on the 47. I've seen one online no mint mark not as good as mine which there probably billions and it was going for $250 also check out the reverse the s in pluribus, both A's in America. One of the a looks 3D. What say you
It's a common circulation find. Nothing special from what I can see. I'm not sure why someone is selling for $250 as anyone could get one in this or better shape for $0.05 during a CRH event. I have a couple hundred just like it.
It's worth a nickel. It's old, but very few Jefferson's have value. A 47-S in AU or better would have a little value. This is a common coin, and very circulated. Even if the "book" says it's worth a dime or fifteen cents, there's no market for it. Dealers are not buying it. It's a spender.
Jimm - you're too kind. Better thought of as your fellow enthusiasts (with a margin of experience and knowledge). Besides...some of us dress funny.
To many people think they can "strike it rich from pocket change " without ever taking the time and effort to look at the information available.
@Jimm it might be worth your time to buy a Red Book, get a used one, cheaper, and the prices are moderately useless although they give you an idea. Yeoman "A Guidebook to American Coins"
Best place to get a red book is to go online eBay type in seller thrift books, they cost $3.97 with free shipping for a good used one. Or if you live on the mainland, many thrift stores Goodwill and Salvation Army anyone who has her book section they’re in there all the time for $2. Personally, I recommend you collect the full set from 1947. Then you will have something to put on a bookshelf that makes cents.
Interestingly enough, I was talking with a friend telling him that I bought an 1836 bust half. He looked it up in his 2020 Red Book and I looked it up in my 2011 Red Book, and the listings, price and all, were identical!!!
2011 was a fairly good year for pricing Coins, then 6 to 8 years later you may even notice that the price may have dropped.
The Red Book is an easy, ready-reference but it's accuracy when it comes to values is questionable and overstated (and inconsistently so). I have a 2014 Red Book since my earlier reference from 1978 was obsolete. I use it to get gross values not expecting much in the way of accuracy. Gray sheets are for that. But when I'm planning to bid on a coin at the LCS, I'll have a look at it to see if there are price jumps at certain grading points. 1942D Jefferson Nickel comes to mind off the top of my head...and maybe a 1934 LWC. At a certain point, the suggested values jump. The point of it is that while the values may be overstated (and likely are), trends and shifts are noted in the Red Book which can help a collector know where they may want to buy a coin (i.e., buy a coin above the shift since it'll appreciate better over time). Buying at the wrong point might lead to disappointment otherwise.
Great, tnks. One question isn't looking online better turn the book because it's more current correct me if I'm wrong
Updating electronic records is easier but not always maintained. Grabbing data from a few sanctioned sources is the best way. And as for posted value vs actual value, you need to sample sources with what is paid. Completed sales on eBay can help but watch for ‘fliers’ where over eager buyers and sellers bought or sold on impulse. Toss those out and look more towards the center for a cluster of sales. That’s probably a better indicator of actual market value.
Definitely brtter for current prices, but for information and "ballpark" value, a recent Red Book isn't bad.
what website (can you provide a link?) did you see $250? don't use ETSY.COM or any other weird place with out of whack prices. Use reputable sale price websites you can even use SOLD auctions on eBay .. but don't use the eBay auction BIN prices (only the SOLD). on eBay I see BU 1947 nickels selling for 99 cents. although there are 1947 D MS67 NGC graded Full Steps sold for $229. whereas a 1947 D MS66 one was $39 1947 S MS66 NGC was $15 1947 P MS 66 NGC $20 Yours by comparison isn't slabbed/certified, is damaged, heavy circulation wear and icky looking. so it totally varies and is very, very specific. You have to learn to look way more closely than just the year and mint mark and "doubling". Search eBay for sold same year/mm coins and do very detailed comparisons of yours vs others. Maybe start making yourself a checklist of what exactly to look for and expand it as time goes on as you become more critical of your own analysis.
A nice find but it's only worth a nickel. You definitely need to spend $25 and get the Red Book. It's worth the investment.
