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<p>[QUOTE="Oldhoopster, post: 3000898, member: 84179"]Adding digits and mintmarks was a common way to make counterfeits years ago. The MM or digit was skillfully removed from a coin and then soldered/glued back onto the host coin creating a rarity. This was a common way to counterfeit 1909S-VDB and 1916-D Mercury Dimes. However, high powered microscopes could spot these. Research showed that specific MM styles were used for certain time periods, so you just couldn’t remove an S from a common 1950s cent and add it to a 1909VDB. And since these rarities had low mintages, it could also be determined where the MM was placed on the dies, so you don’t see many new counterfeits made this way</p><p><br /></p><p>It is not inconceivable for your coin to be a 1943 with an added 4. The 3 may have been carefully ground off and a 4 from a donor cent was soldered in place. If the cent was then replated, it would hide much of the evidence of grinding and soldering and since lots of dies were made for 1944 cents it would be impossible to a die match.</p><p><br /></p><p>Two things you can do immediately:</p><ol> <li>Look at the edge to determine if it’s been replated. Original steel planchets were punched from plated sheets, so the steel is exposed on the edges. Since some of the surfaces already show environmental damage, you should expect to see corrosion along most/all of the edges.</li> <li>Check for any surface scratches or other bumps around the second 4 under the highest magnification you can use.</li> </ol><p>Extraordinary rarities require extraordinary proof. You need to look at your coin as objectively as possible. Others will, especially a TPG that will ultimately have to authenticate it. The chances that you have a genuine 1944 Steel Cent is very slim, and if you can determine it’s a fake, you’ve saved yourself the $50-$100 in TPG fees. </p><p><br /></p><p>Based on this thread, I don’t believe you’re going to be able to provide the proof that’s needed to confirm the authenticity. You have a lot of experienced collectors questioning the coin. But if you really want to know, send it to a TPG. You pay your money and take your chances but I think your chances are extremely slim. Just my opinion[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Oldhoopster, post: 3000898, member: 84179"]Adding digits and mintmarks was a common way to make counterfeits years ago. The MM or digit was skillfully removed from a coin and then soldered/glued back onto the host coin creating a rarity. This was a common way to counterfeit 1909S-VDB and 1916-D Mercury Dimes. However, high powered microscopes could spot these. Research showed that specific MM styles were used for certain time periods, so you just couldn’t remove an S from a common 1950s cent and add it to a 1909VDB. And since these rarities had low mintages, it could also be determined where the MM was placed on the dies, so you don’t see many new counterfeits made this way It is not inconceivable for your coin to be a 1943 with an added 4. The 3 may have been carefully ground off and a 4 from a donor cent was soldered in place. If the cent was then replated, it would hide much of the evidence of grinding and soldering and since lots of dies were made for 1944 cents it would be impossible to a die match. Two things you can do immediately: [LIST=1] [*]Look at the edge to determine if it’s been replated. Original steel planchets were punched from plated sheets, so the steel is exposed on the edges. Since some of the surfaces already show environmental damage, you should expect to see corrosion along most/all of the edges. [*]Check for any surface scratches or other bumps around the second 4 under the highest magnification you can use. [/LIST] Extraordinary rarities require extraordinary proof. You need to look at your coin as objectively as possible. Others will, especially a TPG that will ultimately have to authenticate it. The chances that you have a genuine 1944 Steel Cent is very slim, and if you can determine it’s a fake, you’ve saved yourself the $50-$100 in TPG fees. Based on this thread, I don’t believe you’re going to be able to provide the proof that’s needed to confirm the authenticity. You have a lot of experienced collectors questioning the coin. But if you really want to know, send it to a TPG. You pay your money and take your chances but I think your chances are extremely slim. Just my opinion[/QUOTE]
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