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1943 Steel Cent MS66 vs. MS67
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<p>[QUOTE="eddiespin, post: 2596441, member: 4920"]We have several in MS66 to MS67, and one I'm calling MS68. None of them are third-party graded. The higher up they go, the less you're focusing on marks, as the less there are, and the more you're paying attention to the whole and the eye-flow through the coin. At MS68, you're comfortably going through the coin, just as the engraver intended. At MS67, there are little to no marks, and at MS66 there are more marks. I've been watching these auctions over the years on Heritage to see how my grading stacks up, and one thing I've observed pretty consistently is the "fence-post" luster stops at MS65, and you're "white" from MS66 up. I've observed exceptions, but for exceptional coins. Thus, to answer the question, you're basically at "white" luster, marks you basically have to tease out to see, and good eye-flow, to go from MS66 to MS67.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="eddiespin, post: 2596441, member: 4920"]We have several in MS66 to MS67, and one I'm calling MS68. None of them are third-party graded. The higher up they go, the less you're focusing on marks, as the less there are, and the more you're paying attention to the whole and the eye-flow through the coin. At MS68, you're comfortably going through the coin, just as the engraver intended. At MS67, there are little to no marks, and at MS66 there are more marks. I've been watching these auctions over the years on Heritage to see how my grading stacks up, and one thing I've observed pretty consistently is the "fence-post" luster stops at MS65, and you're "white" from MS66 up. I've observed exceptions, but for exceptional coins. Thus, to answer the question, you're basically at "white" luster, marks you basically have to tease out to see, and good eye-flow, to go from MS66 to MS67.[/QUOTE]
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1943 Steel Cent MS66 vs. MS67
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