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<p>[QUOTE="BooksB4Coins, post: 2597415, member: 36230"]With all due respect, sir; you're making assumptions and excuses in an attempt to make the coin out to be what you want as opposed to what it is. </p><p><br /></p><p>I'd be very interested to learn where you've found all these accepted "differences" to the "3s" on legitimate 1943 cents. I've no doubt that by searching photos one can find examples that appear to be different, but this doesn't mean every photo is of a legit example. A genuine copper 43 is both a well-known and high-dollar error, and because of this there are many forum posts from people hoping to strike it rich. The point is that simply "surfing the web" and looking at whatever photos appear doesn't automatically mean you're looking at the real deal. Instead, search out photos of 43 steel cents or known 43 copper cents, and then compare the 3s to yours. Also, don't simply assume "different designs" will be accepted by grading companies unless said differences are an established fact. The TPGs have most certainly seen their fair share of "hope and dream" coins that turned out to be simple alterations to straight counterfeits, and everything in between, and are not going to give a coin a pass because of a submitter's claims.</p><p><br /></p><p>That said, buying the OP's coin and simply burning that $100 bill would give you the same result, and that is a complete waste of money. Same goes for submitting it, but aliexpress likely has them for around a buck each give/take if you want to experiment. A better idea would be to understand that one of the beautiful things about coins is, with very few exceptions, the coin itself can tell you everything you need or want to know about it. The problem is that one needs to know how to "listen".[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="BooksB4Coins, post: 2597415, member: 36230"]With all due respect, sir; you're making assumptions and excuses in an attempt to make the coin out to be what you want as opposed to what it is. I'd be very interested to learn where you've found all these accepted "differences" to the "3s" on legitimate 1943 cents. I've no doubt that by searching photos one can find examples that appear to be different, but this doesn't mean every photo is of a legit example. A genuine copper 43 is both a well-known and high-dollar error, and because of this there are many forum posts from people hoping to strike it rich. The point is that simply "surfing the web" and looking at whatever photos appear doesn't automatically mean you're looking at the real deal. Instead, search out photos of 43 steel cents or known 43 copper cents, and then compare the 3s to yours. Also, don't simply assume "different designs" will be accepted by grading companies unless said differences are an established fact. The TPGs have most certainly seen their fair share of "hope and dream" coins that turned out to be simple alterations to straight counterfeits, and everything in between, and are not going to give a coin a pass because of a submitter's claims. That said, buying the OP's coin and simply burning that $100 bill would give you the same result, and that is a complete waste of money. Same goes for submitting it, but aliexpress likely has them for around a buck each give/take if you want to experiment. A better idea would be to understand that one of the beautiful things about coins is, with very few exceptions, the coin itself can tell you everything you need or want to know about it. The problem is that one needs to know how to "listen".[/QUOTE]
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