If memory serves me correct this early in the morning, 1922 was only minted at the Denver Mint and therefore should have the "D". Due to extreme pressure to produce cents, the Mint got sloppy and we now have a 1922 "No D Cent". Please beware of alter or removed Mint marks and counterfeit coins for 1922's.
While I am no expert I do have at least some of the history of the coin. My grandfather collected up until the late 80's. This was part of his collection. I can say for certain that he did not alter this coin but I guess it's possible that when he got it someone else had. Who is the best person to go through to get this coin certified for a reasonable price. And if certified what would be the value. Just trying to see if it's worth it to send it in someone and what the process is.
One thing I can say for sure, this coin is NOT a die pair #2 coin, which is the most valuable variety. The reverse is too weak and the diagnostics for the obverse aren't there for die pair #2.
That looks like die pair #3 to me. It probably makes VF. That could will be $300+ coin. Is the reverse rotated ~15 degrees? See http://lincolncentresource.com/1922Ddievarieties.html
It's early for these things but every once in awhile a cog is in the correct place at that hour. Learning is an everyday process.
Hey Paddy, it just dawned on me, is this a mint error you don't have? If not, you've gotta get one. Also, several varieties exist but like you, I'm not a variety collector.
I think the second 2 is fine. If one was to try to fake a 22 no D it would make better sense to fake the strong reverse type as it is worth much more.
Not until we're certain what it is. There are diagnostics on these, or didn't you know that? These are the types one attributes first, values second. Why? People fake them.
or less sense as it would receive a lot of scrutiny because it is a valuable coin. Maybe it's more profitable to fly a little below the radar with a less valuable coin.
Thanks for all the great info. The link showing the three different varieties is very helpful. Looks like I will have to take it somewhere to be certified or graded to be sure. Can a standard coin shop dealer give me this info or does it have to go through one of the grading services?