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<p>[QUOTE="Conder101, post: 362770, member: 66"]If the coin had a mintmark and it was worn enough that you couldn't tell it had a mintmark it would almost certainly be worn enough that you couldn't see the overdate either. (Although there is a diagnostic die crack that remains visible even on dateless coins.)</p><p><br /></p><p>Although there is currently no known overdate on the 1918 Philadelphia nickel, that doesn't mean that it doesn't exist. And I will disagree slightly with Mark and say that an overdate that showed the top of a 7 would not have to show any of the upright. Yes the 18/7-D does show it but that doesn't mean that a second overdated die would have to. For example the 42/1 dime shows the 1 very strongly. The digit is there and complete. But on the 42/1-D the 1 shows only as a nub at the top and bottom of the 2. And the different 1914/3 nickels also show varying strengths of the underdigit.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Conder101, post: 362770, member: 66"]If the coin had a mintmark and it was worn enough that you couldn't tell it had a mintmark it would almost certainly be worn enough that you couldn't see the overdate either. (Although there is a diagnostic die crack that remains visible even on dateless coins.) Although there is currently no known overdate on the 1918 Philadelphia nickel, that doesn't mean that it doesn't exist. And I will disagree slightly with Mark and say that an overdate that showed the top of a 7 would not have to show any of the upright. Yes the 18/7-D does show it but that doesn't mean that a second overdated die would have to. For example the 42/1 dime shows the 1 very strongly. The digit is there and complete. But on the 42/1-D the 1 shows only as a nub at the top and bottom of the 2. And the different 1914/3 nickels also show varying strengths of the underdigit.[/QUOTE]
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