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<p>[QUOTE="John Burgess, post: 6447430, member: 105098"]I respectfully disagree. I'm not saying it's fake or it's real, I have a really hard time with them myself when it's circulated and there's wear and flattening. The 1916D dime was ODV-001/RVD-001, it was high relief compared to the -002s that start in 1917 through 1945. if gunk were to build up it would be more pronounced on this first design between the cracks and crevices of the devices.</p><p><br /></p><p>top and bottom of the mintmark is parallel to each other, but I'd agree it looks suspect still also. as far as the black that's still on the coin I think a cleaning was attempted and given up on. Terminal toning and an attempted abrasive cleaning, then trying to work on the nooks and crannies of "DIME" and gave up, I think.</p><p>Although it all could be done to cover up a fake of course.</p><p><br /></p><p>the 1916D mintmark is the same D punch used on the 1914-D cent for what it's worth and they only made 4 reverse dies for the 1916-D, two of them are RPMs.</p><p>Wexler has both of them <a href="https://www.doubleddie.com/754355.html" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="https://www.doubleddie.com/754355.html" rel="nofollow">https://www.doubleddie.com/754355.html</a>. Ideally if you could narrow down to one of those, your done, but excluding those, there's still two more which isn't bad considering other coins and how many dies I suppose.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1256299[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]1256300[/ATTACH]</p><p><br /></p><p>Anyways, I hate these things.. 1916-Ds, but I'm inclined to think it might be authentic and harshly cleaned to remove terminal toning by someone at some point. I still wouldn't buy it unless the seller sent it to a reputable TPG and you could find it on a cert look up, there's no reason NOT to, unless it's fake really. Even if it was detailed and marked genuine it would at least make it less sketchy and sell for more than without it.</p><p><br /></p><p>Obverse pictures might help. I see nothing here that would indicate this NOT being RDV-001 though. Added Mintmark, manipulated mintmark, I don't know from these pics. the top and bottom of the D are very straight and parallel to each other as they should be, something that Randy's picture he posted doesn't have, the bottom of it curves into the D,m it's not straight with the top of it. I would suppose if it turned up in my hands somehow it would be worth at least sending to ANACS and let them tell me their opinion on it if it's genuine, the cheapest and a reputable way to get it authenticated.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="John Burgess, post: 6447430, member: 105098"]I respectfully disagree. I'm not saying it's fake or it's real, I have a really hard time with them myself when it's circulated and there's wear and flattening. The 1916D dime was ODV-001/RVD-001, it was high relief compared to the -002s that start in 1917 through 1945. if gunk were to build up it would be more pronounced on this first design between the cracks and crevices of the devices. top and bottom of the mintmark is parallel to each other, but I'd agree it looks suspect still also. as far as the black that's still on the coin I think a cleaning was attempted and given up on. Terminal toning and an attempted abrasive cleaning, then trying to work on the nooks and crannies of "DIME" and gave up, I think. Although it all could be done to cover up a fake of course. the 1916D mintmark is the same D punch used on the 1914-D cent for what it's worth and they only made 4 reverse dies for the 1916-D, two of them are RPMs. Wexler has both of them [URL]https://www.doubleddie.com/754355.html[/URL]. Ideally if you could narrow down to one of those, your done, but excluding those, there's still two more which isn't bad considering other coins and how many dies I suppose. [ATTACH=full]1256299[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]1256300[/ATTACH] Anyways, I hate these things.. 1916-Ds, but I'm inclined to think it might be authentic and harshly cleaned to remove terminal toning by someone at some point. I still wouldn't buy it unless the seller sent it to a reputable TPG and you could find it on a cert look up, there's no reason NOT to, unless it's fake really. Even if it was detailed and marked genuine it would at least make it less sketchy and sell for more than without it. Obverse pictures might help. I see nothing here that would indicate this NOT being RDV-001 though. Added Mintmark, manipulated mintmark, I don't know from these pics. the top and bottom of the D are very straight and parallel to each other as they should be, something that Randy's picture he posted doesn't have, the bottom of it curves into the D,m it's not straight with the top of it. I would suppose if it turned up in my hands somehow it would be worth at least sending to ANACS and let them tell me their opinion on it if it's genuine, the cheapest and a reputable way to get it authenticated.[/QUOTE]
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