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<p>[QUOTE="Silver Striker, post: 360154, member: 1745"]WOW! I am learning more every day. </p><p><br /></p><p>It was suggested that the auction coin was a “spark erosion” counterfeit. I found “GoldCoinLover’s post, “Notes from authentication, conservation, grading class”. In that post he states,</p><p><br /></p><p><i><b>“The vast majority of spark erosion counterfeits are copper.”</b></i></p><p><br /></p><p>Then I found this on the PCGS website.</p><p><br /></p><p><a href="http://www.pcgs.com/articles/article1796.chtml" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://www.pcgs.com/articles/article1796.chtml" rel="nofollow">http://www.pcgs.com/articles/article1796.chtml</a></p><p><br /></p><p><i><b> <ul> <li>In the spark-erosion process, a model coin (usually genuine) is submersed in an electrolytic bath where the coin faces the counterfeiter's die steel. An electrical current is charged through the coin so that a spark jumps across the shortest gap between the coin and the die, thus etching the coin's design onto the steel die.<br /> </li> <li>After both the obverse and reverse have undergone the electrical current process, the dies are highly polished. This is necessary because once the dies have been etched, they remain somewhat pitted. The polishing generally will clean up the fields, but often the design will retain the pitting, since counterfeiters tend not to polish the main devices. Either they are unable to get down into the design, or for time's sake they choose to leave the design elements alone. In either case, these counterfeits are easy to detect, since their surfaces are glassy smooth-resembling a Proof finish-yet their devices are lumpy (remember, the pitting on the dies becomes raised lumps on the finished product). Because the excessive polishing makes the dies sharp, these counterfeits appear to be extremely well-struck, with knifelike edges and rims.<br /> </li> <li>These counterfeits usually are found on small-type coins such as cents and dimes, and on small-sized patterns such as those for Flying Eagle cents and dimes. PCGS has not encountered them on gold coins</li> </ul><p></b></i>.</p><p><br /></p><p>I see now that the coin on e-Bay has been removed for whatever reason. I do believe that this coin is highly questionable. Was it e-Bay who pulled the auction or the seller? Most likely e-Bay by the way it is reported removed. I just wonder what e-Bay told the seller about the coin if they pulled it. If e-Bay told the seller it was counterfeit, I wonder who made the final determination that it was?</p><p><br /></p><p>I am now wondering about some of the recent cent coins I purchased on e-Bay. I have been buying a few cents for birthday presents that are 100 years older than the date of birth of the people I’ve been getting them for. I even bought a couple for me. Will look at them more closely later.</p><p><br /></p><p>Great place for LEARNING here.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Silver Striker, post: 360154, member: 1745"]WOW! I am learning more every day. It was suggested that the auction coin was a “spark erosion” counterfeit. I found “GoldCoinLover’s post, “Notes from authentication, conservation, grading class”. In that post he states, [I][B]“The vast majority of spark erosion counterfeits are copper.”[/B][/I] Then I found this on the PCGS website. [url]http://www.pcgs.com/articles/article1796.chtml[/url] [I][B][LIST] [*]In the spark-erosion process, a model coin (usually genuine) is submersed in an electrolytic bath where the coin faces the counterfeiter's die steel. An electrical current is charged through the coin so that a spark jumps across the shortest gap between the coin and the die, thus etching the coin's design onto the steel die. [*]After both the obverse and reverse have undergone the electrical current process, the dies are highly polished. This is necessary because once the dies have been etched, they remain somewhat pitted. The polishing generally will clean up the fields, but often the design will retain the pitting, since counterfeiters tend not to polish the main devices. Either they are unable to get down into the design, or for time's sake they choose to leave the design elements alone. In either case, these counterfeits are easy to detect, since their surfaces are glassy smooth-resembling a Proof finish-yet their devices are lumpy (remember, the pitting on the dies becomes raised lumps on the finished product). Because the excessive polishing makes the dies sharp, these counterfeits appear to be extremely well-struck, with knifelike edges and rims. [*]These counterfeits usually are found on small-type coins such as cents and dimes, and on small-sized patterns such as those for Flying Eagle cents and dimes. PCGS has not encountered them on gold coins [/LIST][/B][/I]. I see now that the coin on e-Bay has been removed for whatever reason. I do believe that this coin is highly questionable. Was it e-Bay who pulled the auction or the seller? Most likely e-Bay by the way it is reported removed. I just wonder what e-Bay told the seller about the coin if they pulled it. If e-Bay told the seller it was counterfeit, I wonder who made the final determination that it was? I am now wondering about some of the recent cent coins I purchased on e-Bay. I have been buying a few cents for birthday presents that are 100 years older than the date of birth of the people I’ve been getting them for. I even bought a couple for me. Will look at them more closely later. Great place for LEARNING here.[/QUOTE]
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