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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;NPCoin, post: 4472643, member: 5629&quot;]I&#039;m going to jump in here and say some things a lot of people are not going to like.&nbsp; TPGs are not the prophets of some numismatic deity whose proclamations are inerrant truth to be believed and accepted by all.&nbsp; The grades they give are their <i>opinions</i>, nothing more...nothing less.&nbsp; That is how grading works.&nbsp; You utilize whatever guidelines you decide to use, then you grant your opinion based upon your own subjective observations.</p><p><br /></p><p>However, authentication is much more <i>objective</i>.&nbsp; Yes, there are and have been differences in opinions to some pieces with regards to authenticity.&nbsp; But, overall, a fake is a fake.&nbsp; And <i>for the most part</i> TPGs are good in being trustworthy in their authentication.</p><p><br /></p><p>Now, because of this, giving a <i>reasonable</i> price for a &quot;<i>decent</i>&quot; coin is too broad.&nbsp; Pricing is based on <i>grade</i>.&nbsp; So, it would help tremendously to know what grade you and the seller believe the coin to be in (as well as any anomalies/problems).</p><p><br /></p><p>The OP has stated in his posts that he is looking to complete a <i>Whitman folder</i> (yes...<b>many</b> people still collect coins in the <b>raw</b>).&nbsp; And he has stated in his second post that he has a local reputable dealer and does not seem to question the authenticity of that dealer&#039;s offerings.</p><p><br /></p><p>Now, as I read his only two posts thus far, I see this as a simple question on current/fair pricing for 1914-D wheaties.&nbsp; A specific grade has not been given, nor any potential photos et al. to help in specific pricing.&nbsp; I believe this may be simply because the OP is just now beginning his search for a viable addition to complete his folder.</p><p><br /></p><p>Simple answer, [USER=92483]@CapnMike[/USER] , is to go online and check out some various auction sites and price guides to get an idea of what grade ranges you may be able to afford.&nbsp; As well, this will give you an idea if the dealer is offering a fair price and how wide a range is open for haggling.</p><p><br /></p><p>Now, even if you have been at this folder since you were a kid, that does not necessarily mean that you are familiar with the intricacies of the series.&nbsp; We have no idea of your expertise in LWCs, so as always <i>caveat emptor</i>.&nbsp; As it is said, <i>buy the book before the coin</i>.Even if your dealer is trustworthy and you have dealt with him before, make sure you go in armed, not only with pricing knowledge, but knowledge enough to authenticate the coin.</p><p><br /></p><p>Contrary to what some believe, authentication is not only for <i>professionals</i>.&nbsp; There is enough knowledge out there that has been published where anybody can learn enough to spot counterfeits.&nbsp; Yes, some are harder to discern than others, but the knowledge is there to be able to do it on your own.&nbsp; Don&#039;t be afraid to ask questions.</p><p><br /></p><p>However, the <i>right</i> questions will yield much better results in the long run.&nbsp; If you want to purchase keys and semi-keys in the raw, then you should really be prepared to hit the books.</p><p><br /></p><p>Now, I&#039;m going to comment on a few things:</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>This is good advice.&nbsp; Pricing will depend on the grade and if there are any problems (great or small) with the coin.&nbsp; As well, you should have a good relationship with the seller.&nbsp; And even with good relations, it would be even better if the dealer adhered to some authority over him such as the PNG or ANA.&nbsp; If your dealer is a PNG or ANA dealer, then he is under their scrutiny if the coin you buy turns out to be counterfeit.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>If you do not want to do your own studying and learn to authenticate this particular coin, I would surely agree if you have absolutely no qualms with the dealer&#039;s assessment.&nbsp; And yes, alteration is one way of counterfeiting.&nbsp; There are others that may not be as obvious or evident.&nbsp; With regards to this particular alteration, one thing to consider is that there were eleven design varieties that occurred in the thirty years between 1914 and 1944.&nbsp; So, there will be some <i>obvious</i> differences in the design.&nbsp; But, as the coin becomes more worn, some of these differences may not be so blatantly obvious.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><i>Caveat emptor</i>.&nbsp; There are many <i>reputable</i> sellers on eBay that may be regularly selling fakes/alterations or coins with other problems and still have 100% feedback!&nbsp; Although they may have apparent good feedback, I have seen many that give a quarrel in the actual text of their feedback.&nbsp; That is the same in real life.&nbsp; People may say the dealer is a good dealer and he/she hasn&#039;t been convicted of any crimes, but that doesn&#039;t mean that the dealer hasn&#039;t had to refund the same coin over and over if it had been suspected of being counterfeit.&nbsp; That is why I had said before that if the dealer has oversight (like the PNG or ANA) then that is a good plus.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>I would suggest instead: <i>Buy the book before the coin!</i>&nbsp; Yes, a coin that has already been authenticated is a good quick fix.&nbsp; But, I personally believe it is much better to be armed with proper knowledge and experience.&nbsp; That prepares you not only for now, but the future as well.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Quite true!&nbsp; A dealer cannot be an expert in every series.&nbsp; However, there are many that do make a point to gain proper knowledge in the key areas of the series.&nbsp; Part of a dealer&#039;s responsibility is to authenticate/appraise the inventory that comes into his shop. If he does not do it himself, he would usually have a numismatist in house that would do it.</p><p><br /></p><p>And if the dealer has the capacity to make a mistake, how much more does the buyer?</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Sorry, but the OP said it was a <i>Whitman</i> folder.&nbsp; Personally, <i>NGC</i>, <i>ANACS</i>, or <i>ICG</i> would do fine for authentication.&nbsp; <i>Buy the coin, not the plastic</i>.&nbsp; And, good luck on your collection!&nbsp; You&#039;re probably further on it than I am on mine.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>I don&#039;t think we&#039;ll see any kind of photos anytime soon.&nbsp; To me, it seems that the OP is simply testing the waters of the market to see if what he wants will be affordable.&nbsp; I think he has his LCS in mind to start browsing through first (only the OP can tell us that).&nbsp; Barring that route, I am sure he will probably expand his LCS search.&nbsp; Maybe after that, we might get photos for some more distant electronic sources.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Actually, yes there is.&nbsp; Hit the books, ask questions, learn the coin inside and out, and gain the knowledge needed to authenticate it.&nbsp; That is every buyer&#039;s responsibility after all.&nbsp; Just as the dealer has a responsibility to authenticate his inventory, a collector has a responsibility to authenticate his holdings.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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