1914 D LWC

Discussion in 'Coin Chat' started by CapnMike, May 6, 2020.

  1. CapnMike

    CapnMike Active Member

    Just a question, maybe unanswerable, but what do you guys think is a reasonable price to pay for a decent ungraded 1914 d cent. Aside from the 09 S VDB, it's the only empty spot in a Whitman folder I've been collecting in since I was a kid, and I'd like to finish it off. Found every other one except the 09 S in circulation, probably not gonna find the 14 anymore, if ever. Thanks for any input
     
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  3. Collecting Nut

    Collecting Nut Borderline Hoarder

    The area and demand where you live will be different than where I live. Given that it also depends on the coin itself, the condition and the person selling it. I would recommend that it be graded as this has been faked so much. Just take a 1944 and remove part of the first four. You now have a faked 1914. With the D of course.
     
  4. CapnMike

    CapnMike Active Member

    There's a reputable coin shop near me that I've done business with before. They are temporarily closed, but I don't think they'd sell a fake
     
  5. jafo50

    jafo50 Active Member

    Definitely buy one already in a slab. Too many fakes making the rounds.
     
    mlov43 likes this.
  6. Collecting Nut

    Collecting Nut Borderline Hoarder

    Not saying they would but dealers have made mistakes too. Just be careful.
     
  7. Isaac Jones

    Isaac Jones New Member

    I think if you want a 1914 D in a decent condition like, XF, a good price (for a graded one) is around $500-$600. Just read collecting nut's post. But if you don't have that much to spend and want to get the cheapest 1914 d penny you can get one in about G-4 condition for: $120-$200. Hopefully this was helpful.
     
  8. tommyc03

    tommyc03 Senior Member

    Yes to buying this one slabbed. I purchased a very fine slabbed and broke it out to add to my album but saved the receipt for provenance.
     
  9. mlov43

    mlov43 주화 수집가

    If you're looking for my (questionable) advice....

    1) Get a 14-D in the highest grade you can afford (and do it now before they get any pricier). That's been a rule for a while now with this coin.

    2) Yeah, I would buy one in a PCGS slab from a reputable dealer, also.
     
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  10. J.T. Parker

    J.T. Parker Well-Known Member

    Absolutely, Slabbed PCGS any grade you can afford, then break it out if you have a nice Dansco book w/ plastic protectors.
    Good luck and congrats on almost finished your wheat cent collection.
    (I'm still adding to mine slowly)
    J.T.
     
  11. Michael K

    Michael K Well-Known Member

    It's one of the most counterfeited coins there is.
    You'll have to post photos.
    You already mentioned it is ungraded. So there's no way to know if it's real.
    The guy who has it, could have had it for 40 years, and is the most honest guy
    on the planet. And it could still be fake. Maybe he doesn't know it's fake. Etc.
     
  12. Kentucky

    Kentucky Supporter! Supporter

    He hasn't bought any, read his post.
     
  13. Michael K

    Michael K Well-Known Member

    I read it. Why would you assume I didn't read it?
    Photos are available without buying a coin.
     
    Last edited: May 6, 2020
    Kentucky likes this.
  14. Kentucky

    Kentucky Supporter! Supporter

    My bad...sorry :(
     
  15. NPCoin

    NPCoin Resident Imbecile

    I'm going to jump in here and say some things a lot of people are not going to like. TPGs are not the prophets of some numismatic deity whose proclamations are inerrant truth to be believed and accepted by all. The grades they give are their opinions, nothing more...nothing less. That is how grading works. You utilize whatever guidelines you decide to use, then you grant your opinion based upon your own subjective observations.

    However, authentication is much more objective. Yes, there are and have been differences in opinions to some pieces with regards to authenticity. But, overall, a fake is a fake. And for the most part TPGs are good in being trustworthy in their authentication.

    Now, because of this, giving a reasonable price for a "decent" coin is too broad. Pricing is based on grade. So, it would help tremendously to know what grade you and the seller believe the coin to be in (as well as any anomalies/problems).

    The OP has stated in his posts that he is looking to complete a Whitman folder (yes...many people still collect coins in the raw). And he has stated in his second post that he has a local reputable dealer and does not seem to question the authenticity of that dealer's offerings.

    Now, as I read his only two posts thus far, I see this as a simple question on current/fair pricing for 1914-D wheaties. A specific grade has not been given, nor any potential photos et al. to help in specific pricing. I believe this may be simply because the OP is just now beginning his search for a viable addition to complete his folder.

    Simple answer, @CapnMike , is to go online and check out some various auction sites and price guides to get an idea of what grade ranges you may be able to afford. As well, this will give you an idea if the dealer is offering a fair price and how wide a range is open for haggling.

    Now, even if you have been at this folder since you were a kid, that does not necessarily mean that you are familiar with the intricacies of the series. We have no idea of your expertise in LWCs, so as always caveat emptor. As it is said, buy the book before the coin.Even if your dealer is trustworthy and you have dealt with him before, make sure you go in armed, not only with pricing knowledge, but knowledge enough to authenticate the coin.

    Contrary to what some believe, authentication is not only for professionals. There is enough knowledge out there that has been published where anybody can learn enough to spot counterfeits. Yes, some are harder to discern than others, but the knowledge is there to be able to do it on your own. Don't be afraid to ask questions.

    However, the right questions will yield much better results in the long run. If you want to purchase keys and semi-keys in the raw, then you should really be prepared to hit the books.

    Now, I'm going to comment on a few things:

    This is good advice. Pricing will depend on the grade and if there are any problems (great or small) with the coin. As well, you should have a good relationship with the seller. And even with good relations, it would be even better if the dealer adhered to some authority over him such as the PNG or ANA. If your dealer is a PNG or ANA dealer, then he is under their scrutiny if the coin you buy turns out to be counterfeit.

    If you do not want to do your own studying and learn to authenticate this particular coin, I would surely agree if you have absolutely no qualms with the dealer's assessment. And yes, alteration is one way of counterfeiting. There are others that may not be as obvious or evident. With regards to this particular alteration, one thing to consider is that there were eleven design varieties that occurred in the thirty years between 1914 and 1944. So, there will be some obvious differences in the design. But, as the coin becomes more worn, some of these differences may not be so blatantly obvious.

    Caveat emptor. There are many reputable sellers on eBay that may be regularly selling fakes/alterations or coins with other problems and still have 100% feedback! Although they may have apparent good feedback, I have seen many that give a quarrel in the actual text of their feedback. That is the same in real life. People may say the dealer is a good dealer and he/she hasn't been convicted of any crimes, but that doesn't mean that the dealer hasn't had to refund the same coin over and over if it had been suspected of being counterfeit. That is why I had said before that if the dealer has oversight (like the PNG or ANA) then that is a good plus.

    I would suggest instead: Buy the book before the coin! Yes, a coin that has already been authenticated is a good quick fix. But, I personally believe it is much better to be armed with proper knowledge and experience. That prepares you not only for now, but the future as well.

    Quite true! A dealer cannot be an expert in every series. However, there are many that do make a point to gain proper knowledge in the key areas of the series. Part of a dealer's responsibility is to authenticate/appraise the inventory that comes into his shop. If he does not do it himself, he would usually have a numismatist in house that would do it.

    And if the dealer has the capacity to make a mistake, how much more does the buyer?

    Sorry, but the OP said it was a Whitman folder. Personally, NGC, ANACS, or ICG would do fine for authentication. Buy the coin, not the plastic. And, good luck on your collection! You're probably further on it than I am on mine.

    I don't think we'll see any kind of photos anytime soon. To me, it seems that the OP is simply testing the waters of the market to see if what he wants will be affordable. I think he has his LCS in mind to start browsing through first (only the OP can tell us that). Barring that route, I am sure he will probably expand his LCS search. Maybe after that, we might get photos for some more distant electronic sources.

    Actually, yes there is. Hit the books, ask questions, learn the coin inside and out, and gain the knowledge needed to authenticate it. That is every buyer's responsibility after all. Just as the dealer has a responsibility to authenticate his inventory, a collector has a responsibility to authenticate his holdings.
     
  16. CapnMike

    CapnMike Active Member

     
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