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<p>[QUOTE="Onehawk33, post: 398417, member: 13978"]I have a 1914 s buff in g, that may very well be the overdate. I've shown it to a couple of buff experts and both agree that it sure looks good, but due to wear it's very difficult to validate. I've read comments by David Lange that he has rejected most of the coins submitted to him as possibles due to this same issue. </p><p> </p><p>I'm curious to know if anyone in here knows of any other diagnostics of this particular overdate which would help with identification. It won't slabe at PCGS or NGC due to environmental damage. If I had just a bit more confidence, I would send it in to ANACS. I just don't want to spend a bunch of cash and end up with $18-$20 14 s. And I know pics would be wonderful but I've ruined two cameras on the trout stream. I am currently shopping for one that will do both up close macro coin pic's and be as waterproof as they can make. </p><p> </p><p>Any help is much appreciated.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Onehawk33, post: 398417, member: 13978"]I have a 1914 s buff in g, that may very well be the overdate. I've shown it to a couple of buff experts and both agree that it sure looks good, but due to wear it's very difficult to validate. I've read comments by David Lange that he has rejected most of the coins submitted to him as possibles due to this same issue. I'm curious to know if anyone in here knows of any other diagnostics of this particular overdate which would help with identification. It won't slabe at PCGS or NGC due to environmental damage. If I had just a bit more confidence, I would send it in to ANACS. I just don't want to spend a bunch of cash and end up with $18-$20 14 s. And I know pics would be wonderful but I've ruined two cameras on the trout stream. I am currently shopping for one that will do both up close macro coin pic's and be as waterproof as they can make. Any help is much appreciated.[/QUOTE]
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