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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;-jeffB, post: 2740278, member: 27832&quot;]Yesterday I snagged this coin (from, well, <a href="https://www.cointalk.com/threads/lps-local-pawn-shop-comes-through-again.296431/#post-2740230" class="internalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="https://www.cointalk.com/threads/lps-local-pawn-shop-comes-through-again.296431/#post-2740230">not an expert dealer</a>):</p><p><br /></p><p><img src="https://www.cointalk.com/attachments/obverse-cropped-jpg.625189/" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /> </p><p><br /></p><p><img src="https://www.cointalk.com/attachments/reverse-cropped-jpg.625190/" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /> </p><p><br /></p><p>The D is in very low relief, but it&#039;s definitely there. The hairlines are more prominent in these images than they are in-hand, but I assume they&#039;re enough to make the coin ungradeable. Weight and dimensions are spot on.</p><p><br /></p><p>I&#039;m aware of the 1960s counterfeits with correct weight and composition, and this is certainly a date that would be worth counterfeiting. I have a copy of Fivaz&#039; US Gold Counterfeit Detection Guide (assuming I can find it), but I&#039;m not sure how much meat needs to be on the coin for it to be effective, and I know it&#039;s not exhaustive anyhow.</p><p><br /></p><p>I&#039;ve seen other images of this date with the date and lettering much closer to the coin&#039;s edge, but I have the impression that this varies quite a bit. (Something about the die <i>spreading</i> in a poorly-controlled way?)</p><p><br /></p><p>So, for those of you who play in this realm: does this one look good? Are there particular tells I should look for? I can provide closer close-ups as needed (later tonight, after I retrieve the coin and bring it to my camera setup).</p><p><br /></p><p>Thanks, everybody![/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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