1909VDB~Is it Red, Brown or Red/Brown?

Even with the fully brown reverse, the obverse tips the scales past the point. It's a redbrown in my opinion.

Hmmm, a roll ? Was it original or put together? If original, don't see to many of those old rolls these days, since the TPG's anyways.

66RD's......congrats, those are tough.

 

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Can you get 2X2s with a solid back? It's called for in this case.

 

Thanks for all the input here guys and honestly I don't care what it would grade. I'll keep it raw because it's cool.

Now for the record.

This coin was in a tubed roll of Unc VDBs. It was, indeed, the top coin with the Reverse facing up. That's where the brown came from. Yes, there is a hint of red at the bottom but for all intents and purposes it's brown.

The obverse is indeed full red.

I'm into this coin cheap and will keep it as a "conversation piece" more than anything else. It's just cool guys. Not high grade - I figure MS63 or lower actually.

I actually posted it to see what people WOULD actually think it would be deemed in a chunk of plastic. I looked at it and said the "ultimate" red brown. It's red on one side and brown on the other.

If I were to stop people on the street then show them a red coin and a brown coin then THIS coin what do you think they'd say as non-numismitists? I'm betting red brown.

This coin will not see a slab. Not worth it. If I thought it had a shot at 66 or higher I'd consider it for resale value only. As it is it's a fairly common coin and I like it. A 2x2 will hold it just fine.

 

This is the answer I was looking for. Thanks.

 

In my eyes this coin should read, Obverse- RED ,, Reverse- BROWN ...
There's hardly any color variation on either side. You can have a coin that has 10% red on both sides, and its considered RB. If its less than 50% red why not call it Brown-Red. The same goes for the grading of coins. I've seen certified coins graded MS-65, with the reverses looking more XF-AU.
My point is, call the coin what it really is.

 

That's what it's all about! Hey, it made for a nice thread discussion. Mr. Feld did an excellent job (as usual).

 

My description ("RB", having a subdued red obverse and a brown reverse) IS calling the coin what it is. You would question a seller's ability in calling the coin in this thread "RB" when it has 50% "RD" and 50% "BN". Yet, at the same time, you want to call a coin "RB" that might have only 20% RD (10% on each side) and 80% BN. That sure seems inconsistent to me.

 

This is just my personal opinion; If a copper coin (or bronze if you prefer),
has at least 50% of the obverse, AND 50% of the reverse are red, it should be called RED-brown. If a coin is 75% brown on BOTH sides, why not call it what it really is, BROWN- red. This would make things so much easier. Not long ago I traveled 150 miles to look at 2 1910-S cents, both were certified as Red Brown. The owner assured me of quality of the coins and said they looked to be about 30% red. The coins were brown and had some red in the protected areas. Maybe 5% on each side. The system of RB is very misleading. I see nothing wrong with putting separate grades for each side of the coin, and just because a coin has a hint of red,
doesn't nessesarily mean it deserves the big RED included with its grading. There's nothing wrong with people being honest.

 

I agree that the current color designation system has its flaws. Also, the images of bronze coins (with varying degrees of red/red-brown/brown color) are often inaccurate. But then, I don't advocate buying coins on a sight-unseen basis.

One major problem with color designations for bronze coins is that even if accurate notations are made at the time they are encapsulated, later, they often mellow/change color, anyway. Thus the color designations end up being inaccurate.

Sorry about your wasted trip to view the 1910-S cents - it's a shame that the seller couldn't provide decent images or ship the coins to you on approval basis for in-hand viewing.

 

With all due respect, the system is only misleading if you don't take the time to understand what it is.

In the end we can continue to try to look to others to try and micro-rank coins on the RD/RB/BN continuum or even split grades on each side, or we can simply try and judge each coin on its own merits.

Personally, I try and do the latter and don't consider what any third party says when it comes to choosing coins to buy or not....Mike

 

Clembo, if you are starting a collection of them, here is its mate;
http://cgi.ebay.com/1918-LINCOLN-CE...dual?hash=item3a524b6861&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

 

What I mean by misleading is, some coins are 10% red and some are 90% red, and they're considered RB. I just think that the majority color should get the headline.

 

This is what I'm talking about, it's simple...

 

Even if one were to agree with you, why would that make the coin in question (which is 50% red and 50% brown) "BN" as opposed to "RB", especially when the 50% "RD" is on the obverse/more important side?

 

He's gonna have to drop the price substantially. I paid $310 less for mine.

 

In my eyes both sides are equally important, so is the rim. I agree with what RLM CENTS has posted. Obv. MS? Red, Rev. MS? Br..
Make the labeling self explanitory, so there is no second guessing, and date each and every holder because coins colors do mellow out or diminish in time. If these holders are dated its more understanding if there is some fading..

 

Abe,

I posted the coin and YES it does really look like that. Here's my question for you and Mark for that matter.
Do you buy the plastic or the coin?

I bought the coin. I bought it cheap because I LIKED IT. It is Red and it is Brown. Period.

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. This coin will NEVER see a slab while I own it. It's a conversation piece.

Had this coin been in an NGC or PCGS MS64 holder I wouldn't have even looked at it. As it was it was raw, I knew where it came from and I bought it because I liked it.

TPGs don't make up my mind. I make up my mind.

 

I would say RB the REV is Brown for sure, so that being said RB.
Itsallngoodtime
Bob