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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;SuperDave, post: 2400203, member: 1892&quot;]OK, the coin: The full-face images make Mike&#039;s explanation of a double strike much easier to envision - the rotation (where visible) is consistent and exactly proportional. It&#039;s a pleasant revelation to know that a double strike can manifest with incomplete stroke weights on the second hit; seems to me the only way that can happen is if the die was in the process of rotating at the moment of the strike.</p><p><br /></p><p>The images: First, are you familiar with EXIF Data?&nbsp; If not:</p><p><br /></p><p><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exchangeable_image_file_format" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exchangeable_image_file_format" rel="nofollow">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exchangeable_image_file_format</a></p><p><br /></p><p><a href="http://www.howtogeek.com/203592/what-is-exif-data-and-how-to-remove-it/" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://www.howtogeek.com/203592/what-is-exif-data-and-how-to-remove-it/" rel="nofollow">http://www.howtogeek.com/203592/what-is-exif-data-and-how-to-remove-it/</a></p><p><br /></p><p>Your images still have EXIF data embedded. This bothers me not at all; I do not enable geotagging in any of my images and prefer that data is available to onlookers. With it, though, I was able to determine what phone you&#039;re using and what the settings were for your photographs. That phone goes on my list of &quot;recommended candidates&quot; for coin imaging. <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie1" alt=":)" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p>First, force it not to HDR the images. Any in-phone processing will take away from the final appearance of the image; if you&#039;re going to postprocess, use your (far more powerful) computer and more complex editing software. I think ambient light cost you a little contrast; try to light the coin only with what you&#039;re specifically providing to the image, as light bouncing off nearby surfaces into the lens costs contrast. </p><p><br /></p><p>As long as your goal is to create a more faithful image of the coin, there&#039;s nothing against using postprocessing software to get there. It helps to make up for minor problems in image quality. Here&#039;s your first set, corrected for rotation (infuriates me <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie7" alt=":p" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" /> ) and sharpened and contrasted a little, and saved at smaller filesize:</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]494466[/ATTACH] </p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]494467[/ATTACH] </p><p><br /></p><p>I didn&#039;t bother with the background, which is why it looks a little &quot;cut off&quot; from rotating and cropping to the coin. The phone&#039;s HDR function made the images a little bit &quot;too much of everything,&quot; but I didn&#039;t want to get enough into details to lower saturations and play with color, just a couple quick corrections to show some goals for the future.</p><p><br /></p><p>They could be sharper; you may need to play with distance somewhat. The originals are plenty large enough that you can consider backing the phone off somewhat in the interest of sharpness and easier lighting; work towards a final coin size of about 1000 pixels.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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