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1909 no mint mark & 1941 Nickle no mint mark
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<p>[QUOTE="Spark1951, post: 3991320, member: 90692"][USER=107129]@Mayela[/USER] ...get a Yeoman Red Book. At the front of each coin type is a grading <i><b>guide </b></i>that you could use to begin to learn how to.</p><p><br /></p><p>Using those guides and applying them:</p><p><br /></p><p>Your 1909 still has separation between the cheek and jaw of Abe, so you could say it is around VF20 or slightly higher, but the reverse has damage to the right wheat lines and that is going to limit value. I can’t see the VDB... And...</p><p><br /></p><p>The nickel has the rim and lettering merging and this is a classic indicator of VG8.</p><p><br /></p><p>Once you get a ballpark grade, then you can go to many places to get a ballpark value. In this way you can actually answer your own question and save a lot of time researching.</p><p><br /></p><p>Using the Red Book will answer many questions for you about your coins...welcome to Coin Talk, I hope this helps...Spark[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Spark1951, post: 3991320, member: 90692"][USER=107129]@Mayela[/USER] ...get a Yeoman Red Book. At the front of each coin type is a grading [I][B]guide [/B][/I]that you could use to begin to learn how to. Using those guides and applying them: Your 1909 still has separation between the cheek and jaw of Abe, so you could say it is around VF20 or slightly higher, but the reverse has damage to the right wheat lines and that is going to limit value. I can’t see the VDB... And... The nickel has the rim and lettering merging and this is a classic indicator of VG8. Once you get a ballpark grade, then you can go to many places to get a ballpark value. In this way you can actually answer your own question and save a lot of time researching. Using the Red Book will answer many questions for you about your coins...welcome to Coin Talk, I hope this helps...Spark[/QUOTE]
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1909 no mint mark & 1941 Nickle no mint mark
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