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<p>[QUOTE="Hoky77, post: 6891582, member: 97374"]You are allowed slight wear on the high points. I look to the shield and the bow on the rev. and there is the slightest wear on the shield lines and bow. The obv. features are very weak from all the die polishing so when wear shows it appears to be worse than it is because we want to compare it to a normal coin. When you look at a 3 legged or 2 feather nickel or a 1922 no D LWC the AU examples are always less detailed than coins struck from fresh dies.</p><p><br /></p><p>This is a 1922 no d I put in my first Whitman when I was a kid. It came out of a jug my Dad put all of his wheat cents in. I don't know if it was really known as a variety then. I picked the least worn coins from that jug so I'm lucky this was the only 1922 there. The obverse grades About Good normally but the reverse is Very Fine. When you grade a coin like this you have to rely heavily on the reverse features. [ATTACH=full]1272865[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]1272866[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Hoky77, post: 6891582, member: 97374"]You are allowed slight wear on the high points. I look to the shield and the bow on the rev. and there is the slightest wear on the shield lines and bow. The obv. features are very weak from all the die polishing so when wear shows it appears to be worse than it is because we want to compare it to a normal coin. When you look at a 3 legged or 2 feather nickel or a 1922 no D LWC the AU examples are always less detailed than coins struck from fresh dies. This is a 1922 no d I put in my first Whitman when I was a kid. It came out of a jug my Dad put all of his wheat cents in. I don't know if it was really known as a variety then. I picked the least worn coins from that jug so I'm lucky this was the only 1922 there. The obverse grades About Good normally but the reverse is Very Fine. When you grade a coin like this you have to rely heavily on the reverse features. [ATTACH=full]1272865[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]1272866[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]
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