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<p>[QUOTE="candjpa, post: 26738, member: 1830"]<b>back</b></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>i'm going to try to cut and paste all the backs have something between the d and o that yours isn't showing</p><p>satootoko has just replied to a thread you have subscribed to entitled </p><p>- 1916 mercury dimes - in the Main Coin Forum forum of Coin Talk Forum.</p><p><br /></p><p>This thread is located at:</p><p><a href="http://www.cointalk.org/showthread.php?threadid=3728&goto=newpost" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://www.cointalk.org/showthread.php?threadid=3728&goto=newpost" rel="nofollow">http://www.cointalk.org/showthread.php?threadid=3728&goto=newpost</a></p><p><br /></p><p>Here is the message that has just been posted:</p><p>***************</p><p>Welcome to the forum. The value of any coin is greatly affected by its </p><p>condition, as well as its year and mintmark.</p><p><br /></p><p>For a genuine 1916D (mintage 264,000), regardless of condition, my </p><p>outdated two-year old Red Book puts the value at $500 to $5,500. On the </p><p>other hand, for a genuine 1916S (mintage 10,450,000) the same book says </p><p>$3 to $60. Current prices are undoubtedly higher.</p><p><br /></p><p>From your description you have a cataloging job ahead of you that </p><p>really needs a skilful numismatist to undertake. You would undoubtedly be </p><p>better off to pay a qualified person a fee for appraising the coins than </p><p>to buy and study all the books necessary for you to consider doing it </p><p>yourself.</p><p><br /></p><p>The first step would be to do a basic inventory, which would allow you </p><p>to focus on the "top end" material. If it was accumulated over many </p><p>years, ending in 1975, most of the dimes and up will either be 90% </p><p>silver, or 21.6k gold, so you're looking at several times face value in just </p><p>bullion value.</p><p><br /></p><p>Is it all U.S. coinage? If there are any foreign coins in the mix, at </p><p>least the denominations equivalent to dimes and up will also be gold </p><p>and silver.</p><p>***************</p><p><br /></p><p>satootoko has just replied to a thread you have subscribed to entitled </p><p>- 1916 mercury dimes - in the Main Coin Forum forum of Coin Talk Forum.</p><p><br /></p><p>This thread is located at:</p><p><a href="http://www.cointalk.org/showthread.php?threadid=3728&goto=newpost" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://www.cointalk.org/showthread.php?threadid=3728&goto=newpost" rel="nofollow">http://www.cointalk.org/showthread.php?threadid=3728&goto=newpost</a></p><p><br /></p><p>Here is the message that has just been posted:</p><p>***************</p><p>Welcome to the forum. The value of any coin is greatly affected by its </p><p>condition, as well as its year and mintmark.</p><p><br /></p><p>For a genuine 1916D (mintage 264,000), regardless of condition, my </p><p>outdated two-year old Red Book puts the value at $500 to $5,500. On the </p><p>other hand, for a genuine 1916S (mintage 10,450,000) the same book says </p><p>$3 to $60. Current prices are undoubtedly higher.</p><p><br /></p><p>From your description you have a cataloging job ahead of you that </p><p>really needs a skilful numismatist to undertake. You would undoubtedly be </p><p>better off to pay a qualified person a fee for appraising the coins than </p><p>to buy and study all the books necessary for you to consider doing it </p><p>yourself.</p><p><br /></p><p>The first step would be to do a basic inventory, which would allow you </p><p>to focus on the "top end" material. If it was accumulated over many </p><p>years, ending in 1975, most of the dimes and up will either be 90% </p><p>silver, or 21.6k gold, so you're looking at several times face value in just </p><p>bullion value.</p><p><br /></p><p>Is it all U.S. coinage? If there are any foreign coins in the mix, at </p><p>least the denominations equivalent to dimes and up will also be gold </p><p>and silver.</p><p>***************</p><p><br /></p><p>From: Cindy</p><p>Date: 12/16/04 20:49:42</p><p>To: <a href="mailto:claing@ptd.net">claing@ptd.net</a></p><p>Subject: back 1883</p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>--------------------------------------------------------------------------------</p><p><br /></p><p>Attachments Preview:</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>My Document Name.jpg</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>well i tried let me know if you get anything..........as you can tell i am not only coin itteterate but computer illiterate as well....</p><p>if i had your email maybe i could do it i can scan pics to my sister it can't be much different...</p><p>thanks</p><p>cindy</p><p><a href="mailto:cakldkl@yahoo.com">cakldkl@yahoo.com</a>[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="candjpa, post: 26738, member: 1830"][b]back[/b] i'm going to try to cut and paste all the backs have something between the d and o that yours isn't showing satootoko has just replied to a thread you have subscribed to entitled - 1916 mercury dimes - in the Main Coin Forum forum of Coin Talk Forum. This thread is located at: [url]http://www.cointalk.org/showthread.php?threadid=3728&goto=newpost[/url] Here is the message that has just been posted: *************** Welcome to the forum. The value of any coin is greatly affected by its condition, as well as its year and mintmark. For a genuine 1916D (mintage 264,000), regardless of condition, my outdated two-year old Red Book puts the value at $500 to $5,500. On the other hand, for a genuine 1916S (mintage 10,450,000) the same book says $3 to $60. Current prices are undoubtedly higher. From your description you have a cataloging job ahead of you that really needs a skilful numismatist to undertake. You would undoubtedly be better off to pay a qualified person a fee for appraising the coins than to buy and study all the books necessary for you to consider doing it yourself. The first step would be to do a basic inventory, which would allow you to focus on the "top end" material. If it was accumulated over many years, ending in 1975, most of the dimes and up will either be 90% silver, or 21.6k gold, so you're looking at several times face value in just bullion value. Is it all U.S. coinage? If there are any foreign coins in the mix, at least the denominations equivalent to dimes and up will also be gold and silver. *************** satootoko has just replied to a thread you have subscribed to entitled - 1916 mercury dimes - in the Main Coin Forum forum of Coin Talk Forum. This thread is located at: [url]http://www.cointalk.org/showthread.php?threadid=3728&goto=newpost[/url] Here is the message that has just been posted: *************** Welcome to the forum. The value of any coin is greatly affected by its condition, as well as its year and mintmark. For a genuine 1916D (mintage 264,000), regardless of condition, my outdated two-year old Red Book puts the value at $500 to $5,500. On the other hand, for a genuine 1916S (mintage 10,450,000) the same book says $3 to $60. Current prices are undoubtedly higher. From your description you have a cataloging job ahead of you that really needs a skilful numismatist to undertake. You would undoubtedly be better off to pay a qualified person a fee for appraising the coins than to buy and study all the books necessary for you to consider doing it yourself. The first step would be to do a basic inventory, which would allow you to focus on the "top end" material. If it was accumulated over many years, ending in 1975, most of the dimes and up will either be 90% silver, or 21.6k gold, so you're looking at several times face value in just bullion value. Is it all U.S. coinage? If there are any foreign coins in the mix, at least the denominations equivalent to dimes and up will also be gold and silver. *************** From: Cindy Date: 12/16/04 20:49:42 To: [email]claing@ptd.net[/email] Subject: back 1883 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Attachments Preview: My Document Name.jpg well i tried let me know if you get anything..........as you can tell i am not only coin itteterate but computer illiterate as well.... if i had your email maybe i could do it i can scan pics to my sister it can't be much different... thanks cindy [email]cakldkl@yahoo.com[/email][/QUOTE]
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