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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;howards, post: 2576756, member: 299&quot;]I&#039;ll make a number of comments on the above posts without referencing each individual one.</p><p><br /></p><p>I see no die variety on this coin.&nbsp; The cracks are very typical of a shield nickel and are not considered die varieties (if cracks were die varieties, then nearly every shield nickel struck would be a die variety!).</p><p><br /></p><p>The marks on the reverse to the left of the big 5 look to be scratches where the coin was rubbed.&nbsp; The broken tip on the big 5&#039;s flag is post-strike damage, not an issue with the die or a fill.</p><p><br /></p><p>The 8 appears lower than the 1 because the date was entered at a slight angle to the southwest.&nbsp; Shield nickel dates were punched with a 4-digit gang punch and it is very common for the punch not to have been completely level.</p><p><br /></p><p>I do not see a chip at the lower part of the upper curve of the 3.&nbsp; It looks like a speck of dirt to me.</p><p><br /></p><p>[USER=21705]@Marshall[/USER] who posted a coin he thinks is the same obverse die but a different reverse die:&nbsp; Very sharp eyes to spot that obverse.&nbsp; I agree it is the same obverse die.&nbsp; But I think the reverse die is also the same.&nbsp; The reverse suffers from an unfortunate lack of die markers, but I do see what I think is a matching die crack from F (oF) to A (America), and I am pretty certain that there are matching die cracks across the top of ATE (stATEs).&nbsp; (Perhaps you were misled by the post-strike damage to the flag of the 5?)</p><p><br /></p><p>By 1883, the mint had managed to extend die life somewhat, so 10000 strikes is on the low end.&nbsp; They may have been able to extend die life to as much as 25000 strikes.&nbsp; Of course, that&#039;s an average, so it&#039;s quite possible there is an 1883 die that only lasted 10000 strikes.</p><p><br /></p><p>If I missed a question, please repost and I&#039;ll do my best to answer.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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