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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;Insider, post: 2660766, member: 24314&quot;]OP&#039;s coin is 100% counterfeit.&nbsp; Now, please forgive me for the way I will come across <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie84" alt=":smug:" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" /> as we all started as uninformed collectors.&nbsp; This rant is directed to no one here.&nbsp; </p><p><br /></p><p>I am just now editing my original post to remove several characteristics&nbsp;&nbsp; that ID this C/F die; however, I will confirm two major defects as they have already been pointed out. The reverse is terrible.&nbsp; There are lathe lines in the field and a very granular surface on the relief.&nbsp; IMO, since this piece is not made to/and will not fool any competent numismatist, removing those defects will not make this piece any more deceptive. One thing I learned about genuine coins is they are usually made to be a well-finished product. While every defect on a counterfeit will eventually be seen on a genuine coin such as in this case the lathe lines and granular relief, it is not common.&nbsp; Look at the &quot;unfinished, rough appearance of the fake compared to the genuine images.&nbsp; </p><p><br /></p><p>On a scale of 1-10 with 1 being a counterfeit that would not fool your blind grandmother and 10 being a fake that gets slabbed and passes detection for a year, this is in the 3-4 range.&nbsp; <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie2" alt=";)" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p>Note to OP:&nbsp; Your first image is excellent.&nbsp; The sharp reverse image is also. The others are of no help.&nbsp; It is too bad everyone asking for opinions cannot provide sharp images such as yours that blow up larger.&nbsp; Unfortunately, in this day and age, I don&#039;t wish to point out any more faults on your piece. </p><p>However, you and others should be able to identify a lot of them.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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