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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;John Burgess, post: 7629955, member: 105098&quot;]I&#039;m in the genuine camp, but no matter what, this coin is getting &quot;details&quot; cleaned/ questionable color from here on out.</p><p><br /></p><p>the directions for the Mint State restoration state not to let a coin soak in it for long and let the solution settle because it will separate and concentrate and become more acidic. longer soaks are for dug bronze coins that are caked and encrusted, and afterwards need to be treated to retone them as close to natural surfaces as you could get to make the ancient coin somewhat visually appealing and marketable.</p><p><br /></p><p>its an ancient coin &quot;restorer&quot;. it&#039;s meant for encrusted coins sitting in the dirt for hundreds and hundreds of years.</p><p><br /></p><p>I mean it says in the directions &quot;IT IS <b><u>NOT ADVISABLE</u></b> TO USE THIS OR ANY OTHER CLEANER ON MODERN COINS (FOR EXAMPLE, WHEAT PENNIES) UNLESS YOU ARE EXPERIENCED WITH COIN RESTORATION. ALWAYS TEST ON AN INEXPENSIVE PIECE BEFORE USING ON VALUABLE ITEMS&quot;</p><p><br /></p><p>it also says &quot;For copper coins, look for signs of tarnish removal, which can occur fairly quickly. Make sure not to leave copper soaking for too long, or you run the risk of removing the patina. For bronze coins, dirt and verdigris are the predominant issues, and typically require longer soaks. Check bronze every 6 hours or so, making sure to watch for signs that the cleaner has penetrated to the coin surface. Coins with especially heavy dirt, corrosion, and verdigris should be removed and cleaned with a soft brass brush after a 24-hour soak, then placed back in the solution until the desired effect is achieved.&quot;</p><p><br /></p><p>but it&#039;s not copper, and it&#039;s not brass, it&#039;s some level of a cupronickel alloy. not straight up CuNi for saltwater pipes, but it&#039;s close to 90/10 Cuni for saltwater pipes.</p><p>&nbsp;CuNi is silver in color when it&#039;s fresh, over time it takes on a light brown,yellowish hue as it tarnishes, but fresh CuNi is grey just like the original picture.&nbsp; </p><p><br /></p><p>And this from the directions cracks me up &quot;Copper coins sometimes turn a pinkish color after soaking for extended periods of time, which may not be desirable. To restore patina to a copper coin, place it in the soaking tray along with a coin that has verdigris (green corrosion) on it. Soak the coin for about an hour, then remove, but don’t rinse it off immediately. After about 24 hours, you should see some of the patina return.&quot;</p><p><br /></p><p>sure sure. sounds legit. they are suggesting to dissolve verdigris (Copper(II) acetate ) in the solution hoping some of it tranfers to the discolored copper coin to turn it greener. and a more natural patina...... yep. just fantastic! probably even looks good on an ancient coin....</p><p><br /></p><p>if any of these directions from the bottle sounded like good instructions for cleaning a coin, you have a lot to learn. the product is meant for ancients that are lost causes that need to be treated with an acid to remove encrustations to make them half way presentable to a collector of ancients, mostly beginners.</p><p><br /></p><p>Nic-a-date is a &quot;date restorer&quot; for buffalo nickels. it makes the date visible when it&#039;s been worn off, but it still damages the surface of the coin in doing that, damage that can&#039;t ever be repaired without it looking unnatural so whats it matter if you can read the date if it damages the coin? it doesn&#039;t matter, its a dateless buffalo or a damaged coin and worth 5 cents either way.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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