1842 Seated Liberty Dollar

This Seated Liberty has a strong strike and is very clean with toning. It has some marks on her lap that I am not sure what may have caused them. The dark areas of the marks are incuse and the high area does not stand higher than the actual coin. I would like some opinions on what may have caused this and what the approximate grade of this coin may be.

Sorry about the details in the pictures, this coin reflects a lot of light an causes some distortion in the finer details.

 

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The marks are a cool die clash from the shield on the reverse. Should grade high VF-XF. Does appear to be cleaned or whizzed, unfortunately.

 

Are you sure? Looks more like damage from the edge of another dollar.

 

No, I could be wrong. Maybe the size of the picture is throwing me off, but I think it is too big to be reeding marks. I will defer to the experts though...

 

I'll agree about the "look" but the clash does not line up. Therefore PMD.

 

Oddly, I think I agree with @Insider. It was hit

 

I had considered a Die Clash for some time now but the marks are in at the opposite angle to the shield and a little to low on the coin. I never until now considered that another coin struck it on its side however. I pulled the coin out again and put it under my scope and now I believe you are correct, it was struck by another coin. In the picture below you can see at the bottom it tapers inward to another parallel line that would match the reeding on the edge of that type of coin.

Someone mentioned that it may have been cleaned or whizzed, I assure you it has been neither. I have many problems with my scope taking pictures and trying desperately to get the lighting right. I've looked at this coin through several other types of magnifying devices (Non Digital) and it looks very clean (Not Cleaned).

 

what does wizzed mean?

 

Turn on your computer. Go to Google and type in W H I Z Z E D
C O I N.

 

you know that its polite to answer somebody when they have a question that you know the answer to...

 

Dear Chris,

I don't have the time to play teacher when you would get your answer from another member or EVEN BEFORE I FINISHED THIS REPLY which goes against my better judgement.

When I was learning about coins, there was no internet. Us old timers had to learn on our own. In some ways it was a good thing because when a person has to do their own research it stays with them and often leads to additional learning.

Good luck. Oh, and a moderator on Coin Talk informed me that no one here is required to answer any direct question he/she is asked so down the line you may be disappointed by others who are not polite.

Best Regards...You should know all about whizzing by now my friend!

 

If there was a die clash you'd expect to see it in the fields rather than on the raised features. Those areas are sunk into the die, would be quite difficult for the bottoms of two concaves to hit each other

 

I never said that it was required... if you asked a general question about coins to me, I would think that if i knew it that I would answer it... Getting it explained to the individual works better than Wikipedia my man...

 

Also, are you sure it's genuine? Kind of has the look of some of the Alibaba copies, and the close up details looks like the surface is grainy. Also I'm pretty sure it should have solid dentils all around on both sides, not a mix of dentils and then what looks like dots separated from the rim on the reverse.

 

To the best of my knowledge it is real. I honestly don't remember buying it or even when I did so but I do have one of the copies that you speak of somewhere around here. I know I bought the copy about 12 years ago just to have a reference coin to look at and hold and they were out of my price range at the time, but that one has "COPY" stamped on it.
As I said in a previous comment, I'm having lighting issues with my scope and close-ups are coming out as colorless and often with stains and marks that are not there up to 30x with my other magnifiers. Look at the picture below for an example of what I am referring to. That is a brand new shinny 2016 penny that I got from the bank a couple of days ago. In my hand it is PERFECT! Under my 10x Loop those marks that I circled are not there. Notice that in the picture it also looks like a really nice steel penny, devoid of any color!

Some of the dentils are not prominent in the picture because I had to throw some shadows on the coin in order for the details in the center to be visible, all of the dentils are there, complete and as they should be .

 

So what have you found out about whizzing?

 

Back to the OP's coin...I'd like some more opinions...the pictures are not great, but do the surfaces look problem free to you? Not trying to push my point, just genuinely curious.

 

The coin's surface (blowup of the marks) is VERY granular. In that photo it does not look genuine; however, in the OP photos the coin look sharp. A magnified photo of the date numerals my help as this date has been counterfeited.

 

Whizzing is a practice of using a high speed rotary device with a wire brush on the surfaces of the coin to smooth(move metal) and create artificial luster. Things to look for is build up around the devices and fine scratches

Google images

 

I'm sorry but if you have time to spout off this mumbo jumbo, then you have time to explain whizzed. You have a lot of knowledge and I respect that, but I don't respect your lack of respect for others in your holier than thou answers.