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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;SuperDave, post: 2405867, member: 1892&quot;]I&#039;m assuming you want to save the coin as best you can, so we&#039;ll proceed as if it&#039;s PVC. It might not be.</p><p><br /></p><p>If that&#039;s active PVC, it&#039;s probably already eaten into the surfaces of the coin. Even considering the caveat I will follow this recommendation with, if the coin were mine I would drop it into a baby food jar full of acetone with something to prop the coin up so both faces get equal exposure, cover it in airtight fashion, leave it in a cool, dry, well-ventilated area <i>and not look at it again for four days</i>. Then I&#039;d attack it with a Q-tip and rose thorns (you_do have rose thorns, right? The coin conservator&#039;s most important tool <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie1" alt=":)" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" /> ) while immersed in fresh acetone.</p><p><br /></p><p>For the record, latex rubber gloves are OK for protection with acetone, although they&#039;ll only resist it for about ten minutes. Butyl rubber is far better at the cost of manual dexterity. Don&#039;t trust nitrile gloves in acetone. Me, I tolerate the stuff in direct exposure for a few moments OK, but some do not and you <i>haven&#039;t felt pain</i> until you get acetone into an open wound. <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie1" alt=":)" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p>I do this, when I do it, at the side of a table next to an open window, with a window fan blowing out, pulling its&#039; air from across the work. For the record, I use tongs instead of gloves, coated with Liquid Rubber (with the EDPM formulation; it&#039;s as good against acetone as butyl). That way I don&#039;t have to touch the acetone at all.</p><p><br /></p><p>Anyway, after that long a soak, the first few moments with the Q-tip will tell you if you have PVC or verdigris. The PVC will come up just like you&#039;d used Goo-Gone on bubble gum, all icky and stuff. Verdigris, if it comes up at all, will feel gritty. If PVC is it, remove what you can and then alternate a couple daylong soaks with more Q-tip interaction. A couple of those (at least one after you see no green whatsoever left on it) will pretty much render the coin safe.</p><p><br /></p><p>Caveat: If you are completely successful at removing all the black stuff (it <b>isn&#039;t</b> PVC plasticizer contamination), you will be left with a coin having a noticeably &quot;cleaner&quot; swath the exact shape as what was once black.&nbsp; Might want to consider that. <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie1" alt=":)" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p>Oh, the coin? Yes, that&#039;s a die crack, characteristic of a later-die-state JR-3. The line leading down from the right side of the A&nbsp; in STATES should be another.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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