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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;physics-fan3.14, post: 2364546, member: 19165&quot;]I am not seeing anything on the coin that points me to a fake. The coin looks genuine. A few comments:</p><p><br /></p><p>1. To those comparing photos and seeing things not line up - remember, each of the devices was punched by hand, and had quite a bit of variation. If you find two different dies, and compare the pics (as was done early in this thread), absolutely nothing will line up. That is not surprising.</p><p><br /></p><p>2. Even when comparing coins of the same die, remember that these were struck in an open collar on a press operated by hand. There is tremendous variation between even two successive strikes. That will explain almost all of the variation you are seeing between the OP&#039;s coin and the other coins posted here.</p><p><br /></p><p>3. [USER=14070]@rzage[/USER]&nbsp; The book for these was written by Browning (Hence the B-3 and B-2 designations being tossed about). A couple of years ago, a new authoritative reference was published which is now the standard (and supercedes Browning), written by Rea, Peterson, and Karoleff.</p><p><br /></p><p>4. Finally, to the coin in the OP: it has been dipped several times, and polished. Sending it to NCS, or some professional conservator, will not restore the surfaces. The metal of the surface itself has been eaten away by the cleaning methods, and no amount of help will bring that back. Its best now to just leave it the way it is. The closeups you have provided show the characteristic look of over-dipped surfaces (and are actually quite educational, to point out what happens with too many dips).</p><p><br /></p><p>5. Assuming it is genuine (which I am), I would grade your coin AU, Details. It is probably worth somewhere around $1500.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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