1825/4 Browning 3 Capped Bust Quarter - Lots of photos!

Discussion in 'What's it Worth' started by Jupiter88, Mar 1, 2016.

  1. Jupiter88

    Jupiter88 "Chingalinga"

    Hi Rick,
    Thank you for taking the time to look into this and bring it up, I appreciate it. I'm not sure if you photo is the B-3 variety? I know the B-3 obverse die was shared with B-2, but when I analyzed mine against others, I used a handful of B-3's available to compare but there are some differences. I poured over every resource I could find and measured and aligned and studied die markers as well. There are some main consistent die markers depending on the die stage and toning.

    The B-3 in the late die stages, forms a large cud along the reverse of united. The die crack from the left upper corner of E. Pluribus banner to the D of United and from the D to the rim (you can see it beginning on mine), seems to grow into the cud in later stages (the au58 shows the progression and the au55 displays a cud). Here are the main ones I used:
    1. HA - ms64
    HA-ms64 8.8k.jpg
    HA2-ms64 8.8k.jpg

    2. HA- ms63
    HA-ms63 14.1k.jpg
    HA2-ms63 14.1k.jpg

    3. HA- ms66 +star

    HA-ms66 plus star 38k.jpg
    HA2-ms66 plus star 38k.jpg

    4. HA- au58
    HA-au58 2.9k.jpg
    HA2-au58 2.9k.jpg

    5. HA- au55

    HA-au55 3.7k.jpg
    HA2-au55 3.7k.jpg
     
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  3. Rick Stachowski

    Rick Stachowski Motor City Car Capital

    I'm by far no expert on these, but I am a variety collector, that has been called eagle eye on Pcgs forums .
     
    Paddy54 likes this.
  4. Jupiter88

    Jupiter88 "Chingalinga"

    Also note, the details in the arrow feathers and claws do match up when using the same B-3 variety to compare. I also read where it was not uncommon for strikes to be stronger on one side than the other (uneven pressure) with these. The right side on some in the claw/arrow area, present with stronger detail than others.

    I will post my mapped out die markers as soon as I finish updating (in just a few).
     
  5. Jupiter88

    Jupiter88 "Chingalinga"

    I very much appreciate your input :) Are you still of the same opinion after seeing the B-3 photos? Yours was a B-2 variety and there are small differences in that area I noticed between the varieties.
     
    Rick Stachowski likes this.
  6. K2Coins

    K2Coins GO GATORS

    Looks like AU details to me. It has been overdipped, still a nice coin if you grabbed it at a good price
     
  7. Paul M.

    Paul M. Well-Known Member

    I agree with the consensus that something seems off about this coin. It could be what @K2Coins said (AU/overdipped), but the surfaces don't look right to me. Does this coin have good luster in hand? Because the pictures look really lifeless.
     
  8. Jupiter88

    Jupiter88 "Chingalinga"

    Here are some mapped out die markers on my coin using the B-3 varieties above and some others. As mentioned above, there are some consistent die markers that show on my coin.

    Obverse die markers 1.jpg Obverse die markers 2.jpg Obverse die markers 3.1.jpg Top Half Reverse Die Markers1.jpg Cud Die marker.jpg Bottom Half Reverse Die Markers.jpg Bottom Half Reverse Die Markers 2.jpg
     
  9. Jupiter88

    Jupiter88 "Chingalinga"

    Yes, thank you, it does have good luster. I'm not experienced with dipping, so I'm not sure how it would change the appearance? There is one example I downloaded that was graded "polished" and it was detailed and a B-2 variety. I can see how it appears lifeless as you referenced, but I don't think mine compares to it in that regard, but perhaps polishing and dipping provide different outcomes? I'll attach the one:
    HA-unc details polished 1.4k.jpg HA2-unc details polished 1.4k.jpg
     
  10. Jupiter88

    Jupiter88 "Chingalinga"

    Also, please note, the close up pics are with my microscope, which has a built in lamp and are taken right up against the area. I'm not sure if those are the pics you were referencing?
     
  11. harris498

    harris498 Accumulator

    Can we see a picture of the edge of the coin?
     
  12. Paddy54

    Paddy54 Well-Known Member

    If you look at the eagle's feathers there's no details. That's what sours me on this coin. Plus the arrows
     
  13. David Setree Rare Coins

    David Setree Rare Coins Well-Known Member

    Again, I can't authenticate that one by photos alone.

    If it's real (which I believe) then it has been cleaned or dipped. May have even been whizzed but a lot of detail there!
     
  14. K2Coins

    K2Coins GO GATORS

    I was just about to say, the other reason for the lack of luster would be if the coin was whizzed, but there would be build up around the devices in the coins, which there doesn't appear to be any. I'm sticking with overdipped on this one, it happens to morgans all the time when people try to get too greedy with trying to make the coin look as best as possible and end up killing all of the luster that the coin has. You canm always send it off to ANACS to give you a little insight on the grade and to authenticate it. Plus their prices are pretty cheap for grading services compared to NGC and PCGS
     
    Paul M. likes this.
  15. Jupiter88

    Jupiter88 "Chingalinga"

    Rick, just curious if you were able to take another look and lend your eagle eye on the B-3 photos I posted last night? The same area on the B-3 variety (which is my coin's variety) that you previously compared with the B-2 variety, shows that everything matches up on the claws, arrow feathers and the shield? Also, I mapped out some consistent die markers with the comparison coins and posted later on? Thanks!
     
  16. Jupiter88

    Jupiter88 "Chingalinga"

    Thank you K2Coins for your advice and support! Do you happen to know or have any personal experience with sending a coin through the restoration process? I did research PCGS's and it seems for this coin it may not be a bad option? It appears that if the coin qualifies for restoration, they then send if off for grading afterward?
     
  17. Jupiter88

    Jupiter88 "Chingalinga"

    David, thank you for your input, I appreciate it!
     
  18. K2Coins

    K2Coins GO GATORS

    I'm not sure what PCGS could do in efforts to restore your coin. Most of the time they remove unattractive toning, verdigris, black spots, etc. I don't know how they would go about restoring an overdipped coin. You can always try putting the coin in a sulfer envelope in order to get a more natural toning on it over the course of a year or two.
     
  19. Rick Stachowski

    Rick Stachowski Motor City Car Capital

    I think the coin ok as far as being authentic ....
     
    Jupiter88 likes this.
  20. Jupiter88

    Jupiter88 "Chingalinga"

    Hi Paddy, I get what you're saying on the arrows, I was concerned at first too. I ended up reading though, that it was not uncommon for there to be an uneven strike on this series? I reviewed the arrows on as many B-3's as I could, and there seems to be evidence of this. Not all of the left (right facing) eagle claw and arrows have the same details across the board. If you look at the No. 4 example above of the au58, you can see the same situation.

    I'm not understanding where you're coming from on the eagles feathers though? When I look at all the eagle feathers on the posted examples against mine, I'm seeing just as nice feathers, but admittedly, I may be missing something here due to lack of experience? Could you help me to better understand what details I may be missing and what to look for when comparing them? Thank you for your time!

    Here are a few more in addition to the No. 4 example above on the weak claw/arrow strikes on the B-3:

    PCGS au55

    PCGS AU55_reduced.jpg

    PCGS au53

    PCGS AU53_reduced.jpg

    PCGS au50

    PCGS AU50_reduced.jpg



    HA-xf45

    HA2-XF45 1.2k.jpg
     
    Paul M. likes this.
  21. Jupiter88

    Jupiter88 "Chingalinga"

    Thanks again K2!
     
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