1810 Large Cent (w/ verdigris)

Discussion in 'US Coins Forum' started by Mark Metzger, Aug 3, 2020.

  1. Mark Metzger

    Mark Metzger Well-Known Member

    Hey folks. I just picked up this tougher date large cent as part of a small collection of large cents. It’s a shame about the verdigris on both obverse and reverse. I took these initial shots and then gave it some VerdiClear. I’m hoping for the best. Any advice or feedback would be appreciated.
    715BA1F0-D421-4C41-A5D9-0AC0019AC299.jpeg 55214C1A-2883-42F2-826B-B91C3474D973.jpeg
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  3. Mark Metzger

    Mark Metzger Well-Known Member

    Let the VerdiCare sit overnight on the obverse and it softened the green corrosion quite nicely.
    I have the reverse working now.
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  4. kanga

    kanga 65 Year Collector Supporter

    Looks like the stuff leaves a "footprint" exposing its use.
    I'll be watching for that from now on.
    Red Flag saying "I've been cleaned".
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  5. Mark Metzger

    Mark Metzger Well-Known Member

    Yeah, I realize the discoloration is a trade off, but it is waaaay better than the green slime IMHO.
  6. johnmilton

    johnmilton Well-Known Member

    I think you are better off, and I hope the reverse works out for you too.

    Believe it or not, that will tone down. I owned an 1800 half cent that had been messed with. I put in an coin envelope that was not sulfur free. When I up graded it, about five years later, the coin sold as "normal piece."

    A copper coin doctor could make it tone faster. He would fix the whole thing, but you might not like the result.
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  7. Mark Metzger

    Mark Metzger Well-Known Member

    Here is the reverse...lesson learned: try to dislodge green hunk after a couple hours and don’t wait overnight. The reverse didn’t experience any discoloring...oh well, I wish the obverse looked as good but it is an improvement. I applied VerdiCare to the reverse of an 1833 and the both sides of an 1852 for a couple hours and am pleased with the results. Photos of those are below as well....1810 is the second photo posted

    F2ABD82F-7ED3-4DAA-96D5-5AE8A49DADA6.jpeg 4F74C2D9-39D6-4803-96DA-34161C3DF98B.jpeg 4537D61A-D6AA-4F36-A4A5-AB928F2AA751.jpeg
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  8. Conder101

    Conder101 Numismatist

    Because the metal underneath the verdigris has not been exposed to the same conditions as the rest of the coin. So it doesn't have the same toning/coloration.
  9. mrweaseluv

    mrweaseluv Well-Known Member

    I've found it best with verdicare to treat the whole face of the coin. any minor discoloration is then even and it gives the advantage of killing any other lurking V wait to pop up later (just cause you can't see it doesn't mean it's not already there) Very nice LC too. I still trying for a 1810 for the $20 set I'm doing... and with 20 dollar large cents verdigris and and a bottle of verdicare are my friends (and no big loss if i trash a coin)
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2020
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  10. Mainebill

    Mainebill Wild Bill

    Nice coin. I’m in agreement it’ll tone down naturally. I usually soak the whole surface of the coin too
  11. Mark Metzger

    Mark Metzger Well-Known Member

    I did soak the entire surface but I think the verdigris was not allowing what was underneath it to tone at the same pace as the rest of the coin.
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  12. Mr.Q

    Mr.Q Well-Known Member

    It's semi ancient you just might get away with it good luck. If it is a keeper for you not to worry anyway right!
  13. Cheech9712

    Cheech9712 Every thing is a guess

    Might costs you a point on personal guess
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