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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;TypeCoin971793, post: 3012439, member: 78244&quot;]If you make him pay for authentication/grading, I see no reason why to not do so.</p><p><br /></p><p>Keep in mind that everyone here is looking at pictures of cleaned coins in poor lighting. That is going to make the coins look odd and distort the details. If you could take better pictures of the coins one at a time (on a black background and with at least two light sources), you might get different answers. My first thought from the pictures was fake, but closer inspection revealed that if fake, they are some of the better ones I have seen.</p><p><br /></p><p>One thing I notice is that the high points have a different color than the rest of the coin. That signifies circulation wear and is extremely hard to fake.</p><p><br /></p><p>Where the designs are not worn, the details are very sharp and look like what I’d expect from genuine coins. Fakes from China, in my experience, do not have this quality.</p><p><br /></p><p>The anomalies with the rims can be explained by rim bumps.</p><p><br /></p><p>As for the edge, your picture is too blurry to tell. I had one in FR/AG condition, and the edge markings were surprisingly sharp. One quick test is to try to stand the coin on its edge. Most fakes are struck within a collar, so the edge would be flat, so it would stand up on its edge. Genuine coins were not struck with a collar, so the edge is a little rounded, meaning the coin will not stand on its edge no matter how hard you try.</p><p><br /></p><p>Could these be expert die-transfer copies? Maybe. But they are not your normal cheap fakes. That is why I recommended sending them in.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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