1794 Liberty Cap Large Cent

Gee why couldnt I just stumble upon a coin like this. Lucky find! And what a beauty. I'll continue Dreaming of finding this coin in an old jar or at the cash register at work.

 

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I wanna know, I wanna know, I wanna know!!!

 

Hi All,
This one is not nearly as sexy but other than the apparent cleaning does it look authentic? I'm concerned about the lack of relief even though details are there. Thoughts? It has the correct edge lettering by the way.

 

Any news for us yet?

 

It appears to be an S-21 which has been HOBOed or reworked around the chin making it witch-like in appearance. I know I've seen something on this but I don't remember the details.

But my guess would be authentic with PMD.

 

I still have the coin-I'm going to take it to a London coin show where you can pay to get it graded-cheers Helen

 

Just a point: Getting it grade by a third party grader will increase the market for the coin by easing the minds of those who know less than those doing the grading, but the real early copper lovers like myself wince at entombed coins and the attribution skills (actually the lack thereof) of most third party graders/authenticaters.

I will repeat the advice I gave when the thread started. Get it to early copper specialists and get it into one of the well known auctions if you want to sell it. Long beach has it's summer auction and EAC (Early American Coppers) has an annual auction where the most knowledgeable copper people can and will get you the most bang for your buck.

I also would consider Heritage Auctions IF you can get Mark Borchardt (sic) to write up the description. His descriptions are so much better than the typical ones written by non specialists.

Good luck with whatever you choose to do.

 

Wow, just catching up to this thread. I can't believe two things: that the OP responded after four years with an update and that she still has the coin.

 

It appears that 1 pound is currently worth just under $1.30. So a 1000 pound estimate would convert to about $1300.

I pulled up these comparables to give you a better idea of value.

Subject:




Comp 1 CC#1 $40,250 2008




Comp 2 CC#2/5 $14,400 2009




Comp 3 CC#2-9 $20,500 2016

 

Comp 4 PCGS XF45/EACVF25 $4230 2017




Comp 5 PCGS VF35/ EAC F15 $2000 2015




Comp 6 PCGS VF30/ EAC VG15 $1762.50 2015




My opinion is that it should fall at the bottom of the first page of comps and is far superior to those on the second page with values far in excess of what you were told, even with a few minor dings and even the old cleaning.

 

By the way, I now think it is an early Die State V with the better pictures since the clash marks at the neck have been polished away while the die cracks are extensive. The hair seems a bit thinner which would be expected after polishing.

 

Mighty fine write up as always Marshall. First time I have seen this thread. The op's coin is fantastic. It will fetch way more than she has been quoted.

 

ps I was talking about Die Polishing and not coin polishing. The former is a product of the mint while the latter is PMD.

Also, the edges are GREAT. They show the edge of 94 characteristics with much greater detail than I have seen before. This is why I'm almost certain that it is not an electrotype which could produce details on the flat surfaces like that of the original.

The weight, while high, is well within tolerances used at the mint in 1794. They had not developed precision in rolling out sheets from which to make planchets leading to greater variability of weights at the time of production. In fact, later on they began using planchet stock produced outside the mint.

In fact, only a year later, they used TAL Tokens which were lighter on the NC-2 and on a S-78 I have and cut them down on many half cents.

 

Nicer than mine:

 

I'd make sure it was either PCGS or NGC

 

Surely fake. Send to certifiers to grade ( pcgs or ngc) Don't take one coin dealers word. If real. Wow

 

I wouldn't mind a S-55 like yours.

 

If it's fake, then there is a whole new level of detail which has not been seen and would put all coins, even originals, at risk of being lost in an influx of unidentifiable fakes. But I would not trust a grader to identify it. They can't get the basics right, like identifying a Reverse of 94 from a reverse of 95 from a reverse of 97. All of which are elementary to the specialist.

I understand the confusion by even dealers who do not specialize. But they are acting as experts without the basic level of competence you would expect from a novice specialist.

So again, know you do not get expertise when submitting coins, just a piece of plastic to bury them in.

 

Many Thanks for your advice

 

Who would be a preferable authority to authenticate this?