@justafarmer , your response might be the coolest thing I've ever seen done to show the differences. And, to show that my coin is NOT an authentic SVDB. This type of post is what I was talking about when asking to "learn". I appreciate you and I appreciate all of those that took the time to educate me and anyone else when trying to branch out of what we normally collect. I am very lucky that I did not get burned on this coin for any real amount of money because the gentleman I bought it from said he didn't know if it was real and sold it as such. When I took a stab on it, I knew the first place I would ask, is right here on CT because of the wealth of knowledge often shared. And because of all of your great responses, I won't waste even more money to send to a TPG. Thank you for all (or most) of the responses.
Thanks - now let's look at the reverse. Although the OP's images are hard to see - the "VDB" appears correctly placed. Also added a date overlay onto the PCGS image from an earlier post.
I think it's pretty safe to assume this is a 1909 (P) VDB cent with the "S" added. Again, great visual though.
That was a snooty remark, now come on. You could have asked him to explain. You asked for what you got with that remark.
Doug was correct. I should have shut my mouth before it got into a dog fight. I'm glad the OP did not get stuck with the coin.
Perhaps enigmatic of me, but I perceived that it might have been something that he bought many years ago
James S, posted: "If there gonna go through the trouble of adding a S mint mark why not put it in correct place?" When the majority of these very poor alterations (by 1970's standards) came out less than a handful of folks even knew about the dies or the mint mark position! The counterfeiters were not among them. BTW, it seems to me that several posters are fixated on the position of the "S." You would be better served if you focused on its SHAPE. This is the same crudely shaped "S" found on altered 1932-S quarters.
Thad, that looks like a soldered one? or is it one with a hole on the edge where they raised it from the field? I have only seen one of the latter. Jim
Nope, appears to have been soldered on. This coin is from the 70's according to the dealer I pried it from. He always had it in one of the customer albums in a 2x2 labeled "NOT FOR SALE". I asked him if he wanted to sell it for MANY years and he wouldn't. The story is he sent it in and it came back fake so he put it on display. Anyway, one day I decided I was getting that thing. I offered him $100...he said no. I worked my way to $200 and his eyes light up and he said he was tired of me pleading for it...so it found a new home. It's been an awesome conversation coin! Green - I got you brother! I didn't get burned - I knew exactly what I was doing.
BadThad, posted: "Nope, appears to have been soldered on. This coin is from the 70's according to the dealer I pried it from. He always had it in one of the customer albums in a 2x2 labeled "NOT FOR SALE". I asked him if he wanted to sell it for MANY years and he wouldn't. The story is he sent it in and it came back fake so he put it on display. Anyway, one day I decided I was getting that thing. I offered him $100...he said no. I worked my way to $200 and his eyes light up and he said he was tired of me pleading for it...so it found a new home." I've got some fake Lincoln's from the 70's including 1911-S's. They are between $75 & $95 depending on how nice. I use them for educational talks at coin clubs. If it is not against the rules, PM me and I'll make a listing and get it to you.
I got my account to "authenticate" I had to change my email from my main- cox cable email to a gmail. I have tried and tried and it would not send the email to cox. MY ORIGINAL POST-- Here is some information that will help you- from the book THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO LINCOLN CENTS, by David Lange. FYI- you could email him and ask him his opinion- I have done that- he is a very nice guy. You can get his email online- or PM me. This material is in the book. Also, I didn't take a pic of this, but he says that the 1909svdb has a distinctive wood grain pattern---a grainy looking planchet and ultimately coin- I hope this information helps---I would consider Mr. Lange about as knowledgeable or more so than anyone on Lincolns. This is absolute fact and not opinion or "I think"---the last coin is my own-pcgs ms66 rb with very weak strike- Good luck- edited - sorry, but you are not allowed to post pictures of the pages of a book like that for it violates copyright law. So those pictures were removed.
I'm not going to comment on it's authenticity, but my local coin dealer told me a long time ago that if you're going to buy a coin over$100 make sure it's in a TPG holder. It's a big risk you took and for your sake I hope it's genuine.