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<p>[QUOTE="V. Kurt Bellman, post: 3040390, member: 71723"]I NEVER use ANY commercial "dip". I use an Eastman Kodak concoction that I find is FAAAAAAAAAAR gentler on coins. Its primary use is for textiles that have acquired sulfides of silver stains (which toning is). Below is a clip from an archived source. I use it further diluted.</p><p><br /></p><p><span style="color: #0080ff">KODAK STAIN REMOVER S-10 </span></p><p><span style="color: #0080ff"><br /></span></p><p><span style="color: #0080ff">For Removal of Fixer Stains From Clothing </span></p><p><span style="color: #0080ff"><br /></span></p><p><span style="color: #0080ff">The following formula will remove brownish stains which occasionally appear on </span></p><p><span style="color: #0080ff">clothing where a fixing bath has been spilled or splashed. Usually, this is caused by silver </span></p><p><span style="color: #0080ff">compounds which accumulate in the fixing bath as it is used. </span></p><p><span style="color: #0080ff"><br /></span></p><p><span style="color: #0080ff">Water 96 fluid oz. 750.0 ml </span></p><p><span style="color: #0080ff"><br /></span></p><p><span style="color: #0080ff">Kodak Thiourea 10 ounces 75.0 grams </span></p><p><span style="color: #0080ff"><br /></span></p><p><span style="color: #0080ff">Kodak Citric Acid 10 ounces 75.0 grams </span></p><p><span style="color: #0080ff"><br /></span></p><p><span style="color: #0080ff">Water to make 1 gallon 1 .0 liter </span></p><p><span style="color: #0080ff"><br /></span></p><p><span style="color: #0080ff">For use: Thoroughly wet the stain with this solution and wait for the stain to </span></p><p><span style="color: #0080ff">disappear. Old stains may require more than one application and a longer time (several </span></p><p><span style="color: #0080ff">minutes) to disappear. The garment should be thoroughly washed after the stains have </span></p><p><span style="color: #0080ff">been removed. </span></p><p><span style="color: #0080ff"><br /></span></p><p><span style="color: #0080ff">Since newer-type fabrics may be involved, any garment should be tested by applying a </span></p><p><span style="color: #0080ff">small amount of the stain remover to a hidden portion (such as a shirttail or a small piece </span></p><p><span style="color: #0080ff">of the material snipped from an inside seam) to determine whether bleaching or other </span></p><p><span style="color: #0080ff">damage may occur. </span></p><p><span style="color: #0080ff"><br /></span></p><p><span style="color: #0080ff">Caution: Like all similar solutions, this stain remover contains thiourea, a powerful </span></p><p><span style="color: #0080ff">fogging agent which will contaminate photographic materials and cause black spots. This </span></p><p><span style="color: #0080ff">solution should not be used in the immediate area where light-sensitive photographic </span></p><p><span style="color: #0080ff">materials or processing chemicals are handled. It is difficult to remove traces of this </span></p><p><span style="color: #0080ff">chemical from the hands by washing in water; therefore, contact of the skin with this </span></p><p><span style="color: #0080ff">stain remover should be prevented by the use of rubber gloves. In order to </span></p><p><span style="color: #0080ff">decontaminate the gloves, rinse the outer surfaces in a dilute solution of sodium </span></p><p><span style="color: #0080ff">hypochlorite and then wash thoroughly in warm water. This solution can be prepared by </span></p><p><span style="color: #0080ff">adding one fluid ounce of any commercial hypochlorite solution, such as Clorox, 101, </span></p><p><span style="color: #0080ff">Sunny Sol, etc., t o one quart o f water. </span></p><p><span style="color: #0080ff"><br /></span></p><p><span style="color: #000000">If you're making a liter, which I suggest, start with 35 grams of each active ingredient, not 75 grams.</span></p><p><span style="color: #000000"><br /></span></p><p><span style="color: #000000">Where the text above talks of a "fogging agent", it is helpful to know what that means, chemically. I means it reduces silver compounds into metallic silver, which is kinda what you're trying to do, is it not?</span></p><p><span style="color: #000000"><br /></span></p><p><span style="color: #000000">I virtually NEVER recommend ANY dip for a well-circulated coin. They never look right.</span>[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="V. Kurt Bellman, post: 3040390, member: 71723"]I NEVER use ANY commercial "dip". I use an Eastman Kodak concoction that I find is FAAAAAAAAAAR gentler on coins. Its primary use is for textiles that have acquired sulfides of silver stains (which toning is). Below is a clip from an archived source. I use it further diluted. [COLOR=#0080ff]KODAK STAIN REMOVER S-10 For Removal of Fixer Stains From Clothing The following formula will remove brownish stains which occasionally appear on clothing where a fixing bath has been spilled or splashed. Usually, this is caused by silver compounds which accumulate in the fixing bath as it is used. Water 96 fluid oz. 750.0 ml Kodak Thiourea 10 ounces 75.0 grams Kodak Citric Acid 10 ounces 75.0 grams Water to make 1 gallon 1 .0 liter For use: Thoroughly wet the stain with this solution and wait for the stain to disappear. Old stains may require more than one application and a longer time (several minutes) to disappear. The garment should be thoroughly washed after the stains have been removed. Since newer-type fabrics may be involved, any garment should be tested by applying a small amount of the stain remover to a hidden portion (such as a shirttail or a small piece of the material snipped from an inside seam) to determine whether bleaching or other damage may occur. Caution: Like all similar solutions, this stain remover contains thiourea, a powerful fogging agent which will contaminate photographic materials and cause black spots. This solution should not be used in the immediate area where light-sensitive photographic materials or processing chemicals are handled. It is difficult to remove traces of this chemical from the hands by washing in water; therefore, contact of the skin with this stain remover should be prevented by the use of rubber gloves. In order to decontaminate the gloves, rinse the outer surfaces in a dilute solution of sodium hypochlorite and then wash thoroughly in warm water. This solution can be prepared by adding one fluid ounce of any commercial hypochlorite solution, such as Clorox, 101, Sunny Sol, etc., t o one quart o f water. [/COLOR] [COLOR=#000000]If you're making a liter, which I suggest, start with 35 grams of each active ingredient, not 75 grams. Where the text above talks of a "fogging agent", it is helpful to know what that means, chemically. I means it reduces silver compounds into metallic silver, which is kinda what you're trying to do, is it not? I virtually NEVER recommend ANY dip for a well-circulated coin. They never look right.[/COLOR][/QUOTE]
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