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<p>[QUOTE="messydesk, post: 4983170, member: 1765"]The second set is an improvement on the first. I'd harden the light further still, because the luster is still a little dead. There are a couple ways to do this. One way is to move them farther from the coin, but still have them aimed the same (back them up on the lighting path). The size of the light as seen by the coin will affect the contrast assuming there is no ambient light contributing to the picture. The smaller the light (the farther away), the more contrast. If you're using cool lamps with a lampshade, line the lampshade with black paper. I show this in the video I may have linked to in the last thread you posted about this. If I didn't link to the video, it's <a href="https://archive.org/details/FUN11010" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="https://archive.org/details/FUN11010" rel="nofollow">here</a>.</p><p><br /></p><p>Regarding aperture, I don't like using very small apertures unless the coin requires it due to shape or depth of relief. You lose sharpness to diffraction, even though you gain depth-of-field. I tend to use f8 or maybe f11.</p><p><br /></p><p>One thing to be careful of with seated coinage is the shields. It's possible to place the lights so that they fill in each other's shadows and make the lines in the shield disappear. Don't place the lights such that they are symmetric across the lines. The same goes for Mercury dimes. Play with it a bit and you'll see what I'm talking about.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="messydesk, post: 4983170, member: 1765"]The second set is an improvement on the first. I'd harden the light further still, because the luster is still a little dead. There are a couple ways to do this. One way is to move them farther from the coin, but still have them aimed the same (back them up on the lighting path). The size of the light as seen by the coin will affect the contrast assuming there is no ambient light contributing to the picture. The smaller the light (the farther away), the more contrast. If you're using cool lamps with a lampshade, line the lampshade with black paper. I show this in the video I may have linked to in the last thread you posted about this. If I didn't link to the video, it's [URL='https://archive.org/details/FUN11010']here[/URL]. Regarding aperture, I don't like using very small apertures unless the coin requires it due to shape or depth of relief. You lose sharpness to diffraction, even though you gain depth-of-field. I tend to use f8 or maybe f11. One thing to be careful of with seated coinage is the shields. It's possible to place the lights so that they fill in each other's shadows and make the lines in the shield disappear. Don't place the lights such that they are symmetric across the lines. The same goes for Mercury dimes. Play with it a bit and you'll see what I'm talking about.[/QUOTE]
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