That is not completely true. I had a 1917 ACG certified Lincoln nearly full red and nearly hit free - at least fewer marks than the OP's. (See...
Well, it makes sense.
I have no clue what IIRC is. Die pair #1, #3, and #4 are all weak reverses. Die pair #1 has nothing in common with Die pair #2. They have...
They do little or no grading of their own coins.
All of the price lists I have seen only state no "D" weak reverse. They do not distinguish between dies #1, #3 or #4.
APMEX is generally a well thought of and respected dealership dealing mostly in bullion. If you search for "APMEX", I am sure you will find...
I cannot tell for sure if it is AU or MS. So you either have an AU58 or an MS-64.
From what I heard, it got to 102º. Sorry, but I don't have any 1907 worth taking pics of.
The first looks like a solid 66, the second a solid 65 and the third I cannot tell for sure. It is a 66/65 to me.
That is kind of a loaded question, isn't it? Greysheet lists is for $26 ask.
Your pix are a little fuzzy, but I would guess 63 mostly because of the spots.
Yep! It is a "poor man's" D/D. They were so common that year it is sometimes al most hard to find a clean strike.
I think he is perfectly sane. Just trying to make some money. Now, anyone who buys a set, that will be a different story.
Your repaired die theory makes sense to me and that was the first thing I thought of - but how? Do you really think that a screw would hold after...
Toad, 14-D is noted for its mushy strike. Also, the die crack is the right die crack for it to be used for authentication.
If it is a sample, it is not listed here: http://www.sampleslabs.com/pcgs.html. They have nothing even resembling it there, but the latest slab...
Very nice, but those darn woodies are hard to see. I am pretty sure that is AU. Correct?
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